Introduction

This kitesurfing handbook is for people interested in kitesurfing (also known as kiteboarding) and those already active in the sport.  The focus is on equipment, tips, safety and travel.  Introductory skills and techniques are also covered, along with possible skills progression. Advanced skills are mentioned in place but are not covered in detail.

Kitesurfing is a sport with almost infinite appeal.  I first saw kitesurfers in action in Honolulu while on some RnR (rest and relaxation) after a tour of duty.  I decided then and there to give it a go. Six years later, I bought my first kite from an tourist beach shop, with four free lessons as part of the deal.

I flew a 1.5m foil trainer kite for 18 months to learn kite handling skills, but the power of a 5m kite on the beach during my first lesson was still held me in awe.  I had my heart in my throat when I first flew my 12m kite.  Would I get airborne and fly inland, or yanked off my feet and dragged along the sand?  I felt like I had a wild stallion harnessed on the lines, but quickly I gained confidence and learned how to control. the kite

Once in the water, body dragging revealed more of the power available.  The next progression a water start and getting going – proved a lot more difficult then I expected.  I dived the kite into the power zone, got yanked out of the water and started planing, then would accelerate until I wiped out.  This was frustrating.  How could I get the kite under control, start going where I wanted, and avoid the "walk of shame"?

In hindsight, one more lesson would have probably revealed the key technique that I eventually figured out myself. Some of your instinctive reflexes can work against you while you are learning kitesurfing. When the kite is pulling hard I was hanging onto the bar and pulling it in, which generated more power until I got overpowered, lost control and crashed. The remedy was simple – push the bar out to reduce the power.

Once I mastered this it felt like a door opened to a magical natural kingdom. I was able to edge and carve the board and start cruising crosswind.  This took me past the point of no return - I was hooked.  Slicing through the water powered only by the wind is a wonderful experience that is very addictive and it never loses its appeal.

There is much to learn and a wide range of skills to master. This handbook provides information, tips and techniques to assist your personal kitesurfing journey.  There are many things you can do to increase both your enjoyment and safety.  We are sharing what we have gathered these during our personal journeys with kitesurfing.

Please note that this is not a detailed instruction manual, and reading it is not a substitute for taking lessons from a certified instructor when you start kitesurfing.  Hopefully, the information we provide will accelerate your learning and get you kiting quickly and safely.

With the thrills of kitesurfing comes potential danger. Learning Safety Drills and Techniques is very important for minimizing risks.  You can compare this with learning to drive a car – everybody takes lessons to learn properly and safely. 

One of the major benefits of kitesurfing is the very high proportion of "action time". When there is wind, you can be kitesurfing over 90% of your session time. When surfing you paddle out, wait for a wave, and may have to wait your turn in a line-up. You may actually be surfing on a wave for 5% or less of your session.

When the wind is blowing hard, often the surfing is not so good, so you can go kitesurfing instead.  Conversely, if there is no wind, you can go surfing or paddle a stand-up paddleboard (SUP).  Kitesurfing complements many other water sports.

Kitesurfing at Hampton Beach, Melbourne, Australia

Kitesurfing Gear is also very easy to pack and carry.  Kites pack away and can easily carried on your back.  Twin-tip boards are shorter than surfboards, with 135cm being the most common length and 145cm regarded as long.  You can  easily travel to some wonderful locations for kitesurfing.

There is an amazing amount of progression in kitesurfing.  Getting going on the board for the first time is an unforgettable experience. Next you will master staying upwind, which is definitely a moment.  Then you can try jumping, backrolls, downwinders and progress through to big air, kiteloops and handle-passes.

We provide this handbook to you for free.  If you get some benefit from it, we ask you to consider supporting the handbook by making a donation - even $3, the price of a coffee, would be greatly appreciated - or buy some good gear at a good price from our links sponsors/ on-line store.

FAQ

What’s the difference between Kiteboarding and Kitesurfing?

Good question, simple answer. Kiteboarding is on smooth water and Kitesurfing is on waves. Kitesurfing will have a one directional board with a pointed end and Kiteboarding will have a bi-directional board and the ends are not pointed. We will use “kitesurfing” or the sake of this handbook (and because the website’s name has “surf” in it).

Can anyone Kitesurf?

Yes, if you are reasonably fit and you are keen enough to persist and learn.  Like skiing, technique is a lot more important that brute strength.

Is kitesurfing hard to learn?

No.  Around 5 lessons should get you going with basic skills and another 5 to 10 sessions should see you going upwind.  It can be difficult to schedule lessons though if the wind doesn't oblige.  Flying a trainer kite will accelerate you learning. Buy one. Go for it!

How do you rate Kitesurfing as a sport?

Very enjoyable and very addictive.  We think its as good as skiing powder. Also it gives you a good work out and will tone your legs, butt, abdominals (or ‘Flab-dominals’), back, shoulders and arms.

Why Kitesurf?

You experience the freedom of surfing without having to paddle out or wait for waves.  You can fly like a glider without a hard landing.  You get the speed of wakeboarding without needing a boat.  You can travel long distances powered only by the wind.  You can experience the thrill of carving and turning a board without traveling to the snow or risking gravel rash. It’s great exercise. And it’s a great ‘club’ to be in where ever you travel.

Can you go upwind when Kitesurfing?

Yes.  You fly the kite to the front of the wind window in your direction of travel (like reefing a mainsail in), edge your board to create a "keel", and steer with your feet to create a "rudder".  Kitesurfers are actually classified as sailing vessels.

What is the fastest sailing water sport in the world?

Kitesurfing.  The current fastest speed clocked by a kitesurfer today - the world record for a sail powered craft - is 55.65 knots, set by Rob Douglas in 2010. (You’l love the Rush).

Is it OK to use a board leash when I am learning?

No. If you get yanked hard the board will come at you hard and could easily knock you unconscious or injure you.  Learn to body drag upwind so you can retrieve your board if you lose it. 

Is it OK to use a board leash in big surf?

Yes, if you are an experienced rider and depending on your personal preference. Some kiters prefer not to use a board leash in surf, other do.

Why do some kiters wear boardshorts over their wetsuits?

Its a fashion statement.  

Why don't people Kitesurf in offshore winds?

For two main reasons.  If you crash your kite and can't relaunch it, you and/or your gear will get blown out to sea.  Also, wind coming off land is often lumpy and gusty which can make kitesurfing difficult or even dangerous.  The exception is when there is a boat handy to rescue you. 

Is it OK to Kitesurf alone?

No. Generally, you should always aim to kitesurf with a buddy or at least with some other kiters on the beach or the water.  If things go pear shaped - which could be due to an equipment failure - its great to have some help.

Will my windsurfing or surfing skills help me learn kitesurfing?

Yes, a little.  Any board sports will help you with board control.  However, about 90% of the learning is handling the kite, so using a trainer kite can get your skills up quicker. Get a trainer kite.

How much does it cost to buy the gear?

You can buy a complete set of secondhand gear (board, kite + bar, harness), depending on condition, anywhere from A$600 to A$2000.  Price ranges for NEW GEAR are:  Kite: A$500 to A$2000, Board: A$750 to A$1300, Harness: A$120 to A$250.  Please note that if you are buying a second hand kite, make sure that the kite you are buying is less than 4 years old.  Every year there are improvements in the safety of kites - by buying a relatively recent kite you will keep yourself safe.  Never be tempted into buying a cheap old kite if you are a beginner - they are cheap for a reason and can be very dangerous. We have done a lot of the research for pricing out kites. We have provided you with the information on our Links page.

How long does the gear last?

Your gear should last at least 3 to 5 years, barring major accidents such as kite tears.  A lot of kite tears can be repaired however.   You can patch small holes and tears yourself.

How do you stop from just getting blown out into the ocean ?  How can you steer ?

Firstly, you mostly kite with an onshore wind - so if anything goes wrong you will be blown back onto shore.  

Secondly, even though the wind is blowing in one direction, you are generally kiting at an angle to the wind.  We will discuss this more in the Wind Section.

So how is it that you can go at 45 degrees to the actual wind ?

Your kite catches the wind, and deflects the wind slightly towards you.  This causes a change in velocity for your kite (and consequently you) pulling you slightly in the direction of the wind.  

If you are really keen and want to work out the physics - http://www.phys.unsw.edu.au/~jw/sailing.html.  Believe me - it just kind of works! (or ‘FM’ dude).

Does the kite sink?

No.  Most kitesurfers use leading edge inflatable kites.  As the name implies, these kites are inflatable.  The leading edge spanning the length of the kite, and several struts spanning the width of the kite are inflated before launching.  If the kite falls into the water while kiting, it will nicely float on top of the water, enabling you to relaunch it.   Having said this, never attempt kitesurfing if you cannot swim.  As a beginner, you will spend a lot of time in the water, and basic swimming is a necessity.

Do you get attacked by sharks ? 

No.  I've been doing this 8 years and never even seen a shark.  Seen 4 whales, dozens of dolphins, 2 turtles and 0 sharks.  Sharks exist, I'm sure they are around but a kiter does not generally spend a lot of time in the water - its mostly on the water.  I'm generally either too happy in perfect conditions, or thinking about the wind if it is blowing a gale, to even think about sharks.  My advice - worry more about a bee sting or lightning strike.

How does Kitesurfing compare with windsurfing? 

Kitesurfing is a similar discipline to windsurfing, but the key differences are: kites are more dynamic than a sail, gear is much lighter and easier to carry and rig, techniques for riding and changing direction are quite different.  Windsurfing has been around longer so there are some very experienced people doing it, some of whom also kitesurf. Bottom line is there is much more in common than there are differences, so its good to respect each other and help each other out.   

Do Kitesurfers need to respect a lineup? 

Yes, definitely.  Lineups for a surfing break may combine kitesurfers, windsurfers and even surfers.  However, its best to kite well away from surfers.   If there is a lineup for the waves everyone needs to take their turn and respect others.

Basics

A good understanding of and experience with basic kitesurfing skills is essential to maximize your enjoyment and safety.

You've read this handbook, you watched a few videos (to help you understand the basics), had your lessons and have a good understanding of the basics.  The learning curve is about to become steep - you have to put those lessons into practice and keep yourself (and others) safe in a whole range of conditions.

Choose the conditions carefully

Wind strength

As a beginner, try and choose conditions under 20 knots - typically 15 to 20 knots is the sweet spot.  Consistent sea breezes are preferable too - 15 to 20 knots in front of a storm front can be a very difficult proposition as gusts can be very hard to handle.  Ideally, look for a warm sea breeze on a day that has no chance of rain or storms.  

Wind direction

As a beginner, you want wind that is blowing cross onshore.  This guarantees that if anything goes wrong - whether that be equipment failure or your kite falling out of the sky, you will end up back on the shore.   Be aware where which direction a cross-onshore winds will blow you if you end up in the drink.  Make sure that whatever is in that direction can be negotiated with a kite in the water.  You don't want to get blown into moored boats, swimmers, piers or rock walls if you are swimming with a jelly fished kite.   

Never go out in offshore wind conditions.  

Location

It is best to go somewhere where there are other kiters to help you launch and land.  Preferably a wide beach with enough room to botch a launch or land, that is free of people.  As above, check that down wind is a kite safe area - as you will most probably end up there.

Use a combination key safe that locks onto the outside of your car (e.g. towing ring or towbar) to store your car key while out on the water.  Cars are broken into when left, particularly if you stash a key somewhere insecure, or leave a key in your kitebag on the beach.  There is also a "Hitchsafe" model that fits inside a standard towbar fitting.

Setting up the kite

Unroll your kite, lay it on its back and pump it up.  Keep the kite tethered down to ensure it does not blow off once it has some air in it.  A easy way to do this is to use the short leash on the pump connected to the loop on the kite's leading edge - this gives you the security of having the pump hose and the clip attached to the kite.

Attaching pump leash and pumping up kite

If you are using one hand to secure the kite, be careful while pumping as it is easy to break pumps when pumping with one hand.

Once the kite is pumped hard, place it with the leading edge (the blown up spar that spans the length of the kite) face down into the sand.  You should have your kite aligned with the oncoming wind - ie. if you stand at the spot where you pumped up the kite, the wind should be coming from directly behind you.  It should look like this.

Kite leading edge down into wind

It is common for beginners to under-inflate their kites.  This will affect the kite's flying characteristics and may result in it folding over if you crash it.  Pump your kite up hard.  Seek advice from nearby kiters on this.

Lay out the lines - upwind

1. •Ensuring you are in front of the leading edge, locate the ends of your lines.  
   

2. •Crouch down and carefully place these ends onto the sand.  Try and make sure they do not blow around too much, this will tangle your lines and make your life a misery.  
   

1. •Walk backwards from the front of your kite in the direction of the wind, laying out the lines as you go.
   

2. •Make sure you un loop the lines from the bar the reverse way you wound them on to prevent them getting twisted.  
   

Once you have laid out all the lines, place your bar on the sand and place it into a position so that you are ready to go.  

1. •Make sure the left side of bar (colored side) is on the left.
   

2. •The chicken loop should be upwind of the bar, the safety lines must be clear.  
   

Step downwind of your bar, and pick up the four lines into your hands.  The configuration should be:

1. •Right hand - right hand front line, right hand rear line (right leg in between)
   

2. •Left hand - left hand front line, left hand rear line (left leg in between)
   

Walk towards your kite with your two hands in front of you, using your body to untangle the lines.

When you get to the kite, lay the lines out on the sand from left to right in sequence.

For information on different methods of rigging lines see Line rigging comparison. 

While it is good to know all three methods to rig lines, it is best to use one regularly and develop a fixed routine to eliminate errors.

Connecting the lines

Attach the lines to the kite, ensuring that you follow the color coding.  

1. •Left loop (colored) onto left wing tip line knot (colored)
   

2. •Left knot (colored) onto loop of left bridle leader
   

3. •Right loop (black or white) onto right wing tip line knot (black or white)
   

4. •Right knot (black or white) onto loop of right bridle leader (black or white)
   

Use the same routine for connecting the lines to avoid crossing them.  Crossed lines can result in you completely losing control of the kite on launch, which can be very dangerous.

Setting up for launch

If there are other kiters around and you are not sure that you have setup correctly, ask a kiter to check your setup.  Most kiters will be happy to help - everyone has been in this situation before and it is better for everyone if people are playing safe.

Try and get an assisted launch wherever possible - having a kiter launch your kite is much safer than trying to self launch.  

In terms of preference

1. 1.Assisted launch by a kiter
   

2. 2.Self Launch
   

3. 3.Assisted launch by a non-kiter (not recommended: this can create a world of pain, if you must do this, demonstrate to them how it should be done first)
   

When you are getting an assisted launch, the person launching should pick up the kite in the centre of the leading edge and flip it on its back and take it to the position for launching. 

Launching

1. •The launcher moves to the edge of the wind window and "feeds the kite up" so that it fills with wind.
   

2. •Check your lines and ensure they are not tangled in any way.   If they are tangled, signal to the launcher to place your kite back down. 
   

3. •There is no easy way to untangle the lines safely, it is best to disconnect your lines and start again (disconnect, walk through from the bar to the kite, reconnect).
   

4. •Check that your safety is attached.
   

5. •Give the signal to launch (thumbs up).
   

6. •The launcher releases your kite gently. They should NOT throw it up.
   

7. •You then steer your kite slowly up the edge of the wind window to reduce its power, but avoid bring it completely overhead when on the beach.
   

Assistant about to launch kite

Kiting

Try and focus on gaining at least one of the core skills listed in progressions each session.

The first key one is staying upwind.  Be aware that you first need a little speed before you can make any headway upwind.  Sometimes, you may have to come off the wind a little to generate speed before tacking hard to go upwind.

Landing

Get an assisted landing wherever possible.

As per launching, the preferences are:

1. 1.Assisted landing by a kiter
   

2. 2.Self Landing
   

3. 3.Assisted landing by a non-kiter (not recommended)
   

Once you have landed, secure the kite by ensuring it is in the right position, weighted down (sand or board) and disconnect from the lines.

Moving kites

If you need to carry a kite some distance or move it on the beach, you can grab it by the leading edge bladder while it is inverted.  The wind will keep it aloft, and there is very little pressure as the kite is essentially in neutral position with no tension on the back lines.

Carrying the kite, and flipping it

Placing the kite on the beach - leading edge into the wind

Trainer kites

Flying a trainer kite is a great way to learn kite flying skills.  It can also save you some money when you take kitesurfing lessons.

Flying a trainer kite is a great way to learn kite flying skills. They have the following advantages 

1. •You can fly them in parks or beaches wherever there is wind.
   

2. •They are fairly small (usually 2m) and not as dangerous as a 10m inflatable kite
   

3. •They improve your kite handling and flying skills
   

4. •They are easy to setup and launch, no pumping up is required
   

5. •They are quite robust
   

6. •They are quite cheap - about the cost of a single kitesurfing lesson at around AUS $170
   

7. •You can lend them to friends who are interested in kitesurfing, and they won't get into any trouble flying them
   

8. •They are great for kids and partners to get some experience with kite flying.
   

9. •You may be able to use it in conjunction with a skateboard (landboarding) or skis/snowboard (snow kiting)
   

10. •You can learn a many kite handling skills using a trainer kite and concentrate your lessons on body dragging, using the board and getting going
    

Slingshot B2 trainer kite

Ozone Imp trainer kite package

Line Rigging comparison

Three ways to rig lines to your kite.  Level: basic 

This Methods of Line Rigging table provides a comparison of the three methods of rigging kite lines.

While it is good to know all three methods to rig lines, it is best to use one regularly and develop a fixed routine to eliminate errors.

Upwind line rigging

The colored end of bar is on left (when facing kite, as you would fly it)

Rear lines:

1. •Left colored rear line (loop) goes to kite outside line colored knot
   

2. •Right black rear line (loop) goes to kite outside black knot
   

Front lines

1. •Colored front line (knot) goes to colored kite bridle loop
   

2. •Black front line (knot) goes to black kite bridle loop
   

Upwind line rigging

The colored end of bar is on right (reversed)

Rear lines:

1. •Colored rear line (loop) goes to kite outside line colored knot 
   

2. •Black rear line (loop) goes to kite outside black knot
   

Front lines

1. •Colored front line (knot) goes to colored kite bridle loop
   

2. •Black front line (knot) goes to black kite bridle loop
   

Note: When launching the kite you must hold the colored end of the bar in your left hand as usual.

Choosing the right kite size

How to choose the right kite size for the combination of your body weight and wind strength.  Level: basic

Choosing the right kite size for the combination of wind conditions and your body weight is a critical for safe and enjoyable kitesurfing.  Getting overpowered is no fun at all, and you might get hurt.

If in doubt, use a smaller kite rather than larger kite. 

As a guide, Greg (85kg/190lbs) uses:

1. •Wind 12-20 knots: 12m Noise
   

2. •Wind 20-30 knots: 10m Switchblade
   

3. •Wind 30-40 knots: 7m Crossbow
   

Zach (75kg/165lbs) uses:

1. •Wind 15-25 knots: 10m Switchblade
   

2. •Wind 25-40 knots: 7m Crossbow
   

3. •The above wind ranges are for riders with over 1 years experience and at least 30 sessions logged.
   

We don't recommend going out in wind greater than 40 knots. 

You should not go out in wind speeds above 25 knots during your first year kitesurfing and have logged 30 sessions.

The power and characteristics of kites can vary between manufacturers and models.  For example, some have a greater de-power range than others, and therefore can have a larger safe wind range.  Read your kite manual carefully and follow the manufacturer's recommendation on wind range.

Wind directions

CAUTION: Do not kite in offshore or cross-offshore winds unless you are experienced and have a boat backup.

You need to know about the wind and some terminology because we will be talking about it often in the following sections

Assess the wind direction carefully.  Cross-onshore or cross-shore are best for kitesurfing.  You can kitesurf in other wind directions but they pose different challenges. 

Cross-onshore

1. •The wind blows towards the shore at about a 45 degree angle
   

2. •Ideal conditions for kitesurfing, in the range 18 to 23 knots.  
   

3. •You and your kite will get blown back onto the beach if you ditch your kite and can't relaunch it.
   

4. •You will be able to go downwind on one reach for a distance, and walk back upwind along the beach (the "walk of shame") if you have not mastered staying upwind.
   

5. •Cross-onshore sea breezes tend to be a smooth consistent laminar air flow with little turbulence, providing consistent wind which is great for kitesurfing.
   

6. •Skill level: Beginners and above
   

Cross-shore (also known as side-shore)

1. •The wind blows parallel to the shore
   

2. •You will get blown onto the beach eventually if you dunk your kite and "sail it" back in the direction of the shore.
   

3. •Skill level: Beginners and above.
   

Onshore

1. •The wind blows towards the shore at a 90 degree angle
   

2. •You will get blown onto the beach immediately if you dunk your kite.
   

3. •It can be hard to get out through any shore break.
   

4. •Skill level: Intermediate and experienced kitesurfers.  You must be able to stay upwind to keep away from the beach.
   

Cross-offshore and offshore

1. •Cross-offshore and offshore winds are not good for kiteboarding. 
   

2. •Offshore winds pose the danger of being blown away from the shore in the event of equipment failure or loss of control. 
   

3. •Offshore winds can be very gusty and turbulent as the wind airmass comes off a land mass. 
   

4. •You can kitesurf in offshore winds in a lake or when a safety boat is available.
   

5. •Skill level: Not recommended for kitesurfing.  Experienced kitesurfers only, with boat backup.
   

Wind Window

Understanding the Wind Window is critical for managing the power of the kite and your direction of travel. This is basic theory that your kitesurfing lessons will cover. 

The Wind Window is defined relative to the rider.  The Wind Window is the three dimensional region of sky downwind of the rider in which the kite can be flown.  When facing downwind, the wind window is roughly all the area the you can see. 

Wind Window viewed from the side

Kitesurfers use a clock-type notation to describe the kite location and placement in the wind window.  

1. •When your kite is directly overhead at 12 O'Clock, this is also referred to as the Zenith.  Avoid this position when on the beach
   

2. •You should launch and land your kite at either 9 O'Clock or 3 O'Clock.
   

Wind Window clock notation viewed by rider looking downwind

Wind Window zones

There are three main zones within the Wind Window:

1. 1.The Edge of the Wind Window is where the kite generates the least power.   This is the zone used for launching and landing the kite, or for parking it in a neutral position while in the water.
   

2. 2.The Intermediate Zone is where the kite generates medium power.   You will fly the kite through or in this zone when the wind strength is good and you are cruising.
   

3. 3.The Power Zone is where the kite generates maximum power.  You will fly the kite through or in this zone when you want maximum power - for example when you are doing a water start or the wind speed is fairly low.
   

Three main zones in Wind Window (approximate only)

A kite flown out of the Wind Window will stall and is likely to fall out of the sky. 

Do not fly your kite at 12 O'Clock when on the beach.  A strong gust of wind with the kite in this position could result in you being lofted into the air and carried some distance, with a high risk of impact with something solid.  Injuries and deaths have resulted from this.

If your kite is about to stall, you can reach up and pull on the front lines to keep in flying.

Direction of travel

Kitesurfers only use half the wind window depending on their direction of travel.

Right quadrant of Wind Window used when traveling to starboard (right)

Left quadrant of Wind Window used when traveling to port (left)

To generate maximum power for doing a water start in lighter winds, fly your kite first a short distance in the opposite direction, then bring it back in your direction of when diving it through the power zone.  For example, if you are doing a water start for a right (starboard) tack, first fly your kite to 11 O'Clock (left quadrant) then bring it to 12 O'Clock, then dive it into the right quadrant of the wind window.

Apparent wind effect

The faster you go the more "apparent wind" you create, which has the effect of pushing the wind window behind you.  This makes it more difficult to go upwind, so slowing down will help you go upwind.

Kite flying

How to fly the kite using the control bar.  Level: basic

Learning how to fly the kite is a key skill for kitesurfing.  This page provides some basic theory and techniques for kite handling.

Control bar and lines

Control bar and lines

The Control bar for the kite is your control device for turning, accelerating and slowing the kite.  

1. •The left end of the bar is connected to the left rear line of the kite
   

2. •The right end of the bar is connected to the right rear line of the kite
   

3. •The front lines (right and left) connect the front lines of the kite to the chicken loop, passing through the control bar.
   

Turning the kite

1. •Pulling on the left bar end turns the kite to the left
   

2. •Pulling on the right bar end turns the kite to the right
   

Controlling power

1. •Pulling the bar in towards your body increases the power of the kite
   

2. •Pushing the bar away from your body decreases the power of the kite
   

3. •Letting go of the bar should de-power the kite completely.
   

Kite "locked in"

If the wind is strong, you can fly the kite at one angle (e.g. 50 degrees) and maintain your tack.  This is referred to as having your kite "locked in" at one angle.  When you are able to do this you can shift some attention to your board, arms, feet, legs and body position.  You can experiment with bending your arms and knees, leaning away from the kite more and edging the board, without worrying too much about the kite.

Moving the kite in a sine wave

When there is less wind, perhaps not quite enough to fly with your kite "locked in", you can generate more power by flying your kite up and down in the Wind Window.  The increased motion of the kite creates more apparent wind over its surface and generates more power, which helps keep you planing.  You need to pay more attention to the kite position compared to when it is "locked in".   

1. •The kite travels from a high point (e.g. 70 degrees) to a low point (e.g. 20 degrees) and back up again in a repeating "sine wave" pattern.
   

2. •If you fly the kite too high you will lose power at the top of the curve, or even send the kite back in the opposite direction.
   

3. •If you fly the kite too low you may crash it into the water, or snick the water and slow the kite down a lot.
   

4. •The kite will generate more power on the down and up strokes, and less power at the top and bottom of the curves.  You can balance this power by varying the pressure on the board edge.  Your board can also do small slalom curves in unison with the movement of the kite. 
   

Over time you will learn to automatically fly your kite in a sine wave pattern, much like you learn to automatically operate the clutch in a manual car.

If your kite is about to stall, you can reach up and pull on the front lines to keep it flying.

If your kite lands on the water or the beach with its trailing edge down and the wind is light  you can do a hot launch by pulling on the front lines. The kite will fly straight up.  Do not attempt this in strong winds.

Kite power

Theory on how power and lift is generated by a kite.  Level: basic.

A kite flies and generates power because it acts as a wing.  Air moving over the top of the kite (wing) travels faster than air moving below it.  This faster moving air travels upwards due to the curvature of the wing, which creates less pressure above the wind, which generates lift.

De-powered kite

When the front lines are under tension via their attachment to the chicken loop and the rear lines are loose  (bar pushed out):

1. •The "wing" is flattened - wind speed below and above the kite is similar.
   

2. •The angle of attack is reduced
   

3. •Very little lift and power is generated
   

In this situation, the kite is de-powered.

Powered kite

When the rear lines are under tension (bar pulled in) and the front lines are loose:

1. •The "wing" is curved - wind speed above the kite travels up and is faster that the wind speed below it.
   

2. •The angle of attack is increased
   

3. •Lift and power is generated
   

In this situation, the kite is powered.

Learn to "throw the bar" to de-power the kite if you get dangerously overpowered.  Hanging on the bar in this circumstance could get you lofted or dragged into an obstacle.

Kite trimming

Theory on trimming the kite so it flies in an optimal manner and you are not overpowered or oversheeted. Level: basic

By trimming the kite, you can control the power of the kite and optimize how it flies.  

There are three typical ways of doing this

1. 1.General adjustments for the day - At setup by adjusting the line tie offs
   

2. 2.Range adjustments during a session - Before hitting the water or during a session through de-power straps
   

3. 3.Dynamic adjustments during the session - By pulling the bar in and out.
   

Kite trimming is important when flying the kite unhooked.  If is oversheeted (rear lines pulled in to far) it will stall and fall backwards when you fly it unhooked.

Before going into the details, here's a quick look at the theory.  

The theory

The basic idea is to adjust the angle of the kite relative to the wind to control the amount of wind impacting the kites surface.  The following diagram depicts a de-powered and a powered scenario.

Less Power - the flatter kite means that less wind is impacting the kite surface - decreasing the amount of pull of the kite.  This is achieved through either lengthening the back lines or shortening the front lines.

More Power - the kite moves more perpendicular to the wind generating a lot more power.  This is achieved by either shortening the back lines or lengthening the front lines.

General adjustments for the day

When setting up the kite, you have a variety of choices to tie off your kite to a number of knots.  This is typically on the back line tie offs of the kite, and typically has 3 settings.  

Range adjustments during a session

You can adjust your range of de-power during a session through the de-power strap located on your front lines.

This will either shorten your front lines (de-power the kite) or lengthen the front lines (power the kite).

If there is a color scheme, it is typically

1. •red = de-power
   

2. •black = power
   

Here is a sequence you can use to set the optimum trim using the de-power adjustment:

1. •fly the kite hooked in
   

2. •pull the bar all the way in and turn the kite left and right
   

3. •if there is any hint of back stall (kite falls backwards) push the bar out and pull in some de-power
   

4. •repeat this until there is no back stall at all. 
   

Dynamic adjustments during a session

This is done by either pulling the bar towards you or pushing the bar away from you.  This is explained in detail in Kite power.

When adjusting your kite, keep in mind the theory behind trimming your kite.  This will help you adjust things in the right direction - something that is critical if you are trying to depower in heavy winds.

Upwind body dragging

Upwind body dragging is often essential for retrieving your board after a stack.  Learn it sooner rather than later. Level: basic

Upwind body dragging should be regarded as an essential skill.  Many beginners are worried about losing their board while learning.  Some use a board leash to connect it to them - this is very dangerous and should be avoided.  You can retrieve you board when you lose it by body dragging back upwind.  

Once you have learnt upwind body dragging you don't need to worry about losing your board.  You can recover it even if you have a big crash and get hooked downwind it.  The technique is similar to kitesurfing wind, expect you use your body and one arm as the keel.

1. •Regain control of your kite and bring it over your head in the neutral position.
   

2. •Have a look around to spot your board.  If it is floating with the toestraps up it will be easy to see.  You will now head in the direction of the board.  Lets say you spot the board behind you to your left, looking downwind.
   

3. •Fly the kite around to the left to about 10 or 11 O'Clock.  
   

4. •Pull the bar in to get some power, using your right hand.
   

5. •Keep the kite flying in this position using your right hand.
   

6. •Stretch your left arm out in the water just below the surface in the direction you will travel, with your body also pointing to the left.  This is similar to reaching out while sidestroke swimming.
   

7. •Keep your left arm pulling against the water to act as keel when you are moving.
   

8. •Your kite will fly to the left of the wind window and start taking you upwind, but you will also be carried cross wind a little.
   

9. •You may reach your board on the first pass, in which case you can grab it, bring your kite to a neutral position, do a water start and keep kiting.
   

10. •If you pass downwind of the board on your first pass, keep going past it, then turn the kite by bringing it slowly up to 12 O'Clock, then down to 1 - 2 O'Clock.
    

11. •Swap your left hand over to controlling the bar
    

12. •Stretch your right arm out to create a keel for going upwind on a right hand tack.
    

13. •Repeat this tacking towards your board until you get back to it.
    

Practice upwind body dragging BEFORE you need it.  It is harder to do in lighter winds, so practice makes perfect. 

Water start

How to do a water start. Level: basic

A water start (also called a board start) is the critical skill to learn when you have mastered controlling your kite and body dragging.  This will be your first real taste of kitesurfing.   

The steps are (for a water start to the left):

1. •First lie backwards in the water with your board on positioned downwind with your kite at 12 O'clock
   

2. •Angle the board 45 degrees to downwind and keep the left tip out of the water
   

3. •Move your kite slightly backward (away from your intended direction of travel, e.g. to 1 O'clock)
   

4. •Turn your kite in your direction of travel and dive it forward. The deeper you dive the kite the more power it generates. 
   

5. •Start with a short dive so that you are underpowered - you will get lifted out of the water then fall backward.  Avoid getting overpowered - which will pull you forward over your toes. 
   

6. •Once confident with handling the diving kite, try a more powerful dive so that you get lifted right out of the water.
   

7. •Hang on to the bar as you get lifted out of the water and start planing downwind to gather board speed.  If you are going too fast just PUSH OUT THE BAR.
   

8. •Straighten your legs once you are out of the water
   

9. •Fly the kite back up, but not too high - if you continue the dive it will crash into the water.
   

10. •Edge the board with your heels and turn it in your direction of travel.
    

11. •Keep the kite flying - by now you should be bringing it back down again to generate more power.
    

12. •Once you are up and going concentrate on balancing the power of the kite against the rail of the board.  That's it. You are kitesurfing!
    

Tips:

1. •If your board sinks you need more power and board speed.  Keep your kite turning and don't let it get too high.  Make sure you get enough board speed before edging the board.
   

2. •If your kite crashes into the water, start turning it back up earlier.  This will become automatic eventually.
   

3. •Keep your knees bent when you start to lower your centre of gravity.
   

4. •In stronger winds you don't need to fly the kite down so hard, and you won't need to fly it up and down (sine wave).  You will be able to fly it "locked in" at a convenient position.
   

Video

This video shows a water start at the beginning, and a few later on during the kiting session.

Changing direction

Information on how to change direction. Level: basic

Before you try to change directions (turn) you must be able to Water Start and ride both ways.   A twin-tip board is best for this and it allows you to change direction easily.  Reasonable wind (say 20 knots) makes changing direction easier.

Riding toeside before direction change

Simple direction change

The easiest way to change direction is to:

1. •slow down at the end of a tack
   

2. •bring your kite to 12 o'clock and stop
   

3. •sink back into the water
   

4. •do a Board Start and head back in the other direction.
   

Sliding turn (also referred to as "Sliding transition")

Once you are comfortable with a simple direction change, the next step is to master a sliding turn.  

The steps are:

1. •When riding edge upwind, take your kite towards 12 o'clock and push the bar out, all of which will slow you down.
   

2. •Come to complete stop.
   

3. •Fly the kite to 12 o'clock, shift your weight from your rear foot to the centre of the board, then pull down on the bar to stop yourself from sinking
   

4. •Turn the kite in the opposite direction - the new direction you would like to ride in. 
   

5. •Lean back slightly and point your leading foot (which was your rear foot) in the new direction the kite is pointing and slightly downwind
   

6. •Bend your back knee (which was your forward knee) slightly and transfer some weight to it.
   

7. •Dive the kite in the new direction to get moving.
   

Notes:

1. •If the wind is strong you will not need to pull down on the bar much. 
   

2. •If the wind is light you will need to dive the kite more to generate power and fly it in a sine wave to keep moving in the new direction.
   

3. •If you bring the kite to 12 o'clock too quickly you will get lifted out of the water - which could be your first jump!
   

4. •If you bring the kite to 12 o'clock too slowly you will sink back into the water.
   

5. •Don't move the kite before shifting your weight, and don't shift your weight before slowing down or stopping.
   

6. •Make sure when you dive the kite that you bring it back up again - crashing it into the water is a common mistake while learning.
   

7. •Judge your turn depending on the wind strength - try it slowly first. It is better to sink and Board start again than be over powered and be pulled over your toes off the board.
   

Going upwind

Going upwind is a key skill development from "newbie" to "beginner". Once mastered, you can kite for your entire session without walking back along the beach. Level: basic

It is possible to ride at a 45 degree angle to the wind - actually going slightly against the wind.  

From your point of reference (the kiter) you can kite anywhere up to 45 degrees against the wind.  The general idea is to stay upwind so that you don't have a long walk back at the end of your session.

You can ride upwind at 45 degrees to the wind, turn around and ride at 45 degrees downwind on the way back.  This is called tacking, and will enable you to travel upwind.  A track log for a very short kiting session might look something like this:

How to go upwind

To upwind, you need to combine several techniques and factors:

1. 1.Speed. If the wind is strong enough, speed will not be a problem.  In fact, you may need to slow down a little to be able to go upwind better.  The faster you go the more "apparent wind" you create, which has the effect of pushing the wind window behind you, which makes it more difficult to go upwind.   If the wind is light, it is a little trickier.  You will need to work your kite through the window to generate enough speed.  You may also need to go slightly downwind to build up speed before starting to go upwind.  This will mean that you will take a large curved line to your destination where the star is your starting point   
   

1. 1.Edge. You must be riding on an edge - angle and steer the board in the direction you want to go, rather than letting the kite drag you directly downwind.  The board will be at a 45 degree angle or greater to the water.
   

2. 2.Kite position. If you are struggling, consider bringing your kite lower.  
   

1. ◦The higher the kite is in the sky, the more it will be pulling you vertically up, rather than horizontally upwind.  
   

2. ◦Try your kite at 45 degrees or lower and you will have better ability to go upwind.  This is of course dependent on wind strength.
   

3. 3.Body position and stance. The best stance for going up wind is:
   

1. ◦Arms almost outstretched (not too bent)
   

2. ◦Head and shoulders facing direction of travel (pick a distant marker to aim for and head towards it, or upwind of it).  Look where you want to go.
   

3. ◦Bum and hips in towards the bar (avoid bending your knees too much)
   

4. ◦Front leg straight or nearly straight
   

5. ◦Rear leg slightly bent. Use this to steer into the wind.
   

4. 
   

Failing to do any of these things will result in the dreaded "Walk of Shame" - the nemesis of all kiters.  This basically means that you haven't been able to stay upwind, have drifted downwind as a result and have to walk back to your starting position where your gear is located.  

A straight stance with hips forwards help you go upwind.  Avoid crouching with both knees bent (the "poo stance").

 

Remember to keep your kite at about 45 degrees with the kite as de-powered as much as possible while walking along a beach - this will keep you safe if there are gusty conditions about.  Having your kite high will leave you prone to wind gusts picking you up and landing you in places you don't want to be - roads, trees, backyards.  

Keep the kite over water rather than over the beach - if the wind drops the kite will land safely rather than on people or in palm trees.

Edging the board

Jumping

WARNING: Jumping can be dangerous.  Only jump when you have a clear safety zone 50m downwind and 30m upwind.  Never jump in shallow water.

Jumping is a lot of fun but can be dangerous.  Start with small jumps and build up your height slowly.  Level: Intermediate

 

Once you learn your basic skills, you can try your first small jump.  You may need to "unlearn" some of the reflexes you have developed while learning the basics.  For example, you will be automatically sheeting the bar out to counter excess power in the kite.  To jump, you need to sheet in to generate the power to get you airborne.

Your first jump - 1 to 3 meters

1. •Keep the kite at about 70 degrees so you will get some lift.
   

2. •With some speed, just keep the power on the bar when you crest a small wave to launch off the lip and get some air.  You will land in the direction of travel.  
   

3. •Don’t change the direction or angle of the kite.
   

4. •Spot your landing 
   

5. •Land heel first
   

6. •Celebrate!  You have just opened up another dimension in kitesurfing!
   

Kitesurfing jump (kite-cam photo)

To jump you may have to focus on “unlearning” the reflex you have developed to de-power the kite when cresting swells.

Bigger jumps - 3 meters or more

Bigger jumps require some additional skills.

Launching off chop or small waves:

1. •Cruise with the kite at around 60 degrees
   

2. •When launching off the wave or chop "send" the kite to around 90 degrees (12 o'clock) so that it generates pull
   

3. •Pull the bar in and hold it there.
   

4. •Keep the kite above you as you ascend and enjoy your "hang time", then start turning it back in your original direction of travel
   

5. •Spot your landing, and land with your rear foot down first and your knees bent.
   

6. •Fly the kite back down to 60 degrees then lower into a power stroke and keep going.
   

Launching on flat water:

1. •Cruise with the kite at around 60 degrees
   

2. •"Send" the kite to around 90 degrees (12 o'clock) so that it generates pull
   

3. •Keep edging your board - line tension will increase as you pull against the kite
   

4. •When you feel like you are overpowered release the board edge by flattening the board and pull the bar in
   

5. •Hold the kite as you ascend and enjoy your "hang time", then start turning it back in your original direction of travel
   

6. •Spot your landing, and land with your rear foot down first and your knees bent.
   

7. •Fly the kite back down to 60 degrees then bring it down lower into a power stroke and keep going.
   

Landing a jump

After some "hang time" keep the kite turning in your direction of travel otherwise you will swing right under it and it will stall and lose power, and may crash.

Start will smaller jumps and build up to bigger ones.

Once you have mastered jumping, you can combine a jump with a transition to an opposite tack. 

Self launching

WARNING: Self launching a kite is an advanced skill, and is best learned under instruction

Self launching is handy when there is nobody around to launch your kite.  If in doubt, use an assisted launch.  Level: Advanced.

Notes: 

1. •Self launching techniques vary according to kite make and design.  Seek advice on your particular kite before attempting to self launch.
   

2. •It is always better to get an assisted launch when you can.  It is safer and is much less likely to result in kite damage.
   

3. •When self launching, the leading edge of the kite can drag along the beach surface and get damaged.  
   

4. •Only self launch when there are no obstructions or objects likely to damage your kite present.
   

Self launching technique

1. Position your kite on the beach

1. •Put the kite where you want to launch it, close to the water
   

2. Rig your kite with the lines upwind.

1. •Your kite Rig your kite with the lines upwind.
   

2. •Lay your lines out so that that the kite is positioned towards the water side of the wind window - when you launch the kite you should be inland relative to the kite
   

3. •Connect your kite lines as you do normally, ensuring they are not twisted or tangled with each other or the bridle.  
   

4. •Double check this.  If the kites launches with the lines not connected properly it could go out of control and you may not be able to land it easily.
   

2. Turn your kite, leading edge down so that it points about 45 degrees across the wind.  

1. •The windward tip should be flattened by the wind.  Put a little sand on it to secure it.
   

2. •The leeward tip should be sticking up and just catching the wind
   

3. Walk back to the bar and attach your safety then your chicken loop

4. Turn the bar 180 degrees.  This will assist pulling the kite in the right direction.

5. Walk backwards slowly, teasing the leeward tip to catch the wind.

1. •As the tip catches the wind, the kite will start to fill with wind
   

2. •Flip the bar back to its correct orientation and pull gently on the bar end of the high wing tip to launch it.
   

3. •If there is power in the kite but it doesn't want to launch, keep the lines taught and move downwind a little to bring the kite to the edge of the wind window.   Then pull gently again on the bar end of the high wing tip to launch it.
   

Use your de-power adjustment to reduce the power in the kite when self launching in stronger winds.  You can re-power it once it is flying if necessary.

WARNING: If something goes wrong while self launching, quickly deploy your safety release then secure the kite.

Video - self launching and landing using 2009 Cabrinha IDS system

Self landing

WARNING: Self landing a kite is an advanced skill, and is best learned under instruction

Self landing is a good skill to have, but its better to get another kiter to land your kite if possible, particularly at crowded locations. Level: Advanced.

Notes: 

1. •Self landing techniques vary according to kite make and design.  Seek advice on your particular kite before attempting to self land.
   

2. •It is always better to get an assisted landing when you can.  It is safer and is much less likely to result in kite damage and accidents.
   

3. •When self landing, particularly in gusty conditions, the kite can move across the wind window and power up unexpectedly.  Only self land where there are no obstructions or people close by.  Avoid self landing in gusty wind conditions.
   

Self landing technique

1. Bring your kite down to 45 degrees, as for an assisted landing

2. Fly it down to the beach, let go of the bar and immediately grab the front lines

1. •From now on, you MUST avoid grabbing the rear lines (bar ends) completely as pulling on them will power up the kite and cause havoc!
   

2. •For some kite/bar types (e.g. IDS) you can deploy your safety to fully de-power the kite now.
   

3. As the kite settles down towards its leading edge

1. •Take two steps forward - this reduces the tension in the front lines
   

2. •Pull on the front line attached to the closest leading edge - this will pull the leading edge around so that points into the wind
   

3. •The kite may now settle on the beach, but is not yet secure
   

4. •If the kite does not settle and continues to fly, pull in and follow the front line until you get to the leading edge
   

4. Detach from the bar

5. Rotate the kite on the beach further so that the leading edge points directly to the wind

1. •Put some sand on the wing either side of the centre strut to fully secure it
   

Avoid self landing wherever possible and particularly in strong (25+ knots) and gusty winds.  Seek an assisted landing from a fellow kiter whenever possible.

Downloop turns

Downloop turns provide more power through a turn, but its easy to crash your kite into the water if you don't turn it fast enough.  Level: intermediate

Downloop turns provide a powered alternative to the normal uploop turn.  They can be very useful in low wind conditions.

1. 1.Riding heelside with your kite about 60° above the water, pull hard with your forward hand to dive the kite.
   

2. 2.Turn downwind and carve onto your toeside as the kite powers up. Commit to getting the kite all the way around.
   

3. 3.Continue carving onto your toeside until you are riding in the opposite direction. You should exit the turn with the kite low and with plenty of board speed.
   

4. 4.Uncross your lines by spinning the bar
   

Once you have perfected downloop turns, the further progressions are:

1. •Doing this maneuver immediately after landing a jump to turn any trick you can do into a transition.
   

2. •Down looping the kite while jumping: COMMIT or you will crash!
   

A downloop is half a kite loop.  They can generate a little extra power in light wind or add variety to your transitions.

Jibe turns for directional boards

Page at a glance

Turning directional kitesurfing boards - such as those used in surf and raceboards - is achieved by doing a jibe (or gybe) turn.  

Level: advanced.

Turning directional kitesurfing boards - such as those used in surf and raceboards - is achieved by doing a jibe (or gybe) turn.    

This is necessary because, unlike a twintip board, a directional board only travels in one direction, and must therefore be turned 180 degrees when changing to an opposite tack.

Slide turn with twin tip board

Jibe turn with directional board - note change of feet position

Once a directional board is turned to the opposite tack, your feet will be reversed and you will then have two choices:

1. 1.Continue riding in the new direction toeside
   

2. 2.Do a jibe and switch your feet around - the front becomes the rear and the rear becomes the front - then continue riding heelside.
   

There are two ways to do a jibe turn for directional boards

Learning how to jibe a directional board is quite difficult.  It can be harder than first learning to get up and going, as you must combine kite control/position with carve turning the board and maintain your balance while also swapping your feet.

An average kitesurfer should be able to do their first jibe on a directional after 5 to 10 hours of practice.  However, more practice may be required to make 80 to 90 percent of your jibes, and to do them equally well in both directions.

Learning jibe turns kitesurfing is much easier much easier compared learning them for windsurfing.

Windsurfing jibe

The sequence for the windsurfing jibe is:

1. 1.Move your rear foot from the foot strap and position it in front of the rear foot strap, a little towards the side of the board out of the water
   

2. 2.Loosen your front foot in the foot strap by wiggling it out a bit.
   

3. 3.Initiate the turn by turning your kite in the direction of the turn, then carve the board around (changing your stance from heel-side to toe-side). "Turn the kite, then turn the board".
   

4. 4.While riding toeside, bring your rear foot forwards and position it close to the front foot strap.  You will now be riding with both feet side by side, which is an unstable position.
   

5. 5.Transfer your weight to the foot you just brought forward, then take the other foot out of the footstrap and swing it back, placing it just ahead of the rear foot strap.
   

6. 6.Slide  your new front foot into the forward foot strap
   

7. 7.Consolidate your stance and fly the kite in the new direction to generate power and get going on your new tack.  That's it.  You have done your first jibe!
   

8. 8.Slip your rear foot into the rear foot strap to complete the jibe.
   

Photo sequence:

Pre-jibe (or Front-jibe)

The pre-jibe entails swapping your feet position before you turn.  This enables you to carve your turns from rail to rail - which can favor your strong stance - the one where your balance is inherently better. 

The sequence for a pre-jibe is:

1. 1.Fly the kite higher to reduce pressure on your feet.
   

2. 2.Move your rear foot from the foot strap and position it in front of the rear foot strap, a little towards the side of the board out of the water
   

3. 3.Loosen your front foot in the foot strap by wiggling it out a bit.
   

4. 4.Bring your rear foot forwards and position it close to the front foot strap.  You will now be riding with both feet side by side, which is an unstable position.
   

5. 5.Transfer your weight to the foot you just brought forward, then take the other foot out of the footstrap and swing it back, placing it just ahead of the rear foot strap.
   

6. 6.Slide  your new front foot into the forward foot strap.  You will now be riding toe-side.   
   

7. 7.Initiate the turn by turning your kite in the direction of the turn, then carve the board around so that you end up riding heel-side again. "Turn the kite, then turn the board".
   

8. 8.Consolidate your stance and fly the kite in the new direction to generate power and get going on your new tack.  That's it.  You have done your first jibe!
   

9. 9.Slip your rear foot into the rear foot strap to complete the jibe.
   

When I'm going from starboard to port - goofy to regular - I stay in that goofy-foot stance all the way through my turn until I'm fully going in the other direction, then I switch my feet. In this (photo) sequence, I'm going from port to starboard or regular to goofy foot. I want to get onto my favored stance as soon as possible, so I slowly bring the kite up from the reaching position to the overhead position. Right before it gets to the neutral position, I take my back foot out of the strap and bring it forward so that it's basically about to go into the other front strap. So there's a point just before the kite gets overhead where I pretty much have both my feet in the front foot straps.

There's a split second where you're in a fairly awkward position and that's why you don't really stick your feet in the straps. As you transition your one foot forward, you start to slide your old front foot out of the straps. So, you have the kite slowly going up, your body is going up and you're releasing rail pressure and straightening out the board for a second. Then you switch your feet as the kite swings from the neutral position over toward the other side; that's where you take what was your front foot, step back around, put it in the back strap, load the opposite rail and crank the board around for the turn.

So what I'm trying to do whenever I'm loading the rail and loading the kite in the middle of the turn - regardless of which side I'm turning on - is to stay on my positive side, which for me is goofy foot. I stay on my goofy foot foot as long as possible in the front side position and I get to goofy foot again as soon as possible in the back side position.

Videos

Air gybe

An air gybe is a graceful turn that opens up other transitions and skills.  Level: advanced.

An air gybe  (also known as a jump transition) is an extension of a slide turn, the difference being you get airborne rather than maintaining contact with the water.  These turns look simple and very elegant, but are surprisingly hard to master.  

Air gybe steps

1. •Slow down, edging the board until you nearly stop, with the kite at 11
   

2. •Bring the kite up towards 12
   

3. •Keep the board on its edge throughout the turn
   

4. •Drop your hips and move them back, extending your front leg and bending your rear one.
   

5. •Kick hard off your back leg to get airborne.  Physically jump before the kite pulls you up, pre-empting the takeoff - you will be airborne with the kite directly above you.
   

6. •Pull the bar in to maintain full power and control, and keep it there.
   

7. •Dive the kite in the new direction, and turn your body to face in the new direction of travel
   

8. •Land with the board pointing downwind and set for the new direction (the same as you would for a slide turn).
   

9. •Land pointing off the wind, tail first on a flat board.
   

10. •Dive the kite hard in the new direction of travel with your new front hand.
    

Notes:

1. •A "normal jump" where you edge the board, send the kite, then release the edge, will result in you swinging under the kite and losing power in the kite, making it impossible to change direction 
   

2. •The faster you enter an air gybe, the more you will pendulum under the kite
   

3. •Air gybes are easier to do in stronger winds. More power makes it easier to get airborne.
   

Riding unhooked

Caution: Riding unhooked is an advanced skill for experienced kiters.   

Riding unhooked unleashes the full power of the kite and removes your ability to de-power it with the bar. Level: advanced.

Riding unhooked unleashes the real power of the kite - and removes your de-power, which can be scary.   The technique is used for both wave riding and jumping tricks.

Learning to handle the kite unhooked, on the beach:

1. •Ensure the ‘donkey dick’ is not engaged
   

2. •Tune the kite with the de-power adjustment so it flies fully sheeted
   

3. •Pull the bar down and lift the chicken loop off the hook - you are now unhooked.
   

4. •Step downwind along the beach to reduce the power of the kite
   

5. •Re-hook by grabbing the chicken loop, then dropping the bar, and pulling the chicken loop back down and onto the hook. This has the effect of de-powering the kite, so be careful it doesn't stall and crash
   

6. •Grab the bar again to regain full control of the kite.
   

This same technique applies for unhooking and re-hooking in surf and flat water.

Why unhook?

When surfing "down the line" on a wave, being unhooked with the kite "parked" means it is not generating much pull, and being unhooked frees your body up when surfing and turning the board.  You can also fine tune the kite power by pushing your arms out or pulling them in. 

When jumping, being unhooked allows your body to rotate and spin free from the kite lines, which facilitates a number of advanced aerial tricks.

Rescuing others

You can use your kite to rescue others, but it is very important to not become part of the problem yourself.  Level: advanced.

You can render assistance to and rescue other water users if required, including swimmers, boaters, sailors, windsurfers and other kitesurfers.  Someone with one or both hands raised above their head and waving requires assistance - this is a distress signal.

CAUTION: Only kitesurfers with advanced skills should attempt to rescue others.    If a less experienced kitesurfer attempts a rescue and gets their own kite lines tangled, then two people require rescuing.

Rescuing someone in the water - conscious

1. •Head to their location, slowing as you reach them.  Watch for debris or other obstacles as you approach
   

2. •Instruct the person being rescued to hold onto the handle at the back of your harness
   

3. •Leave your board and use your kite to body drag back to shore, towing the person being rescued
   

Rescuing someone in the water - unconscious

1. •Head to their location, slowing as you reach them. Watch for debris or other obstacles as you approach
   

2. •Use one arm to grab the person being rescued around their chest under their arms
   

3. •If they have stopped breathing, give them a big squeeze
   

4. •Leave your board and use your kite to body drag back to shore, controlling your kite with one hand and towing the person being rescued with the your other arm
   

5. •Administer CPR as soon as you get to the beach
   

Retrieving a board for another kiter

Sometimes kitesurfers lose their boards after a crash and get dragged downwind of it by the kite.  If they are close to the board they should be able to body drag upwind to retrieve.  Howe

To retrieve a board for another kiter:

1. •Head towards the board, slowing down as you approach it.
   

2. •If the board is floating foot straps up, reach down with one hand and grab it by a foot strap or the handle.  Caution: be careful you don't snag a finger on the foot strap, board edge or handle
   

3. •Alternatively, you can stop as you reach the board, bend your knees, maneuver the board across both your knees, then do a water start keeping your knees bent.
   

4. •As you get out of the water and going, you can reach down with one hand and grab the board, then straighten your legs
   

5. •You can then take the board to the kiter and leave it with them.  Keep clear of any kite lines in the water.
   

Retrieving a kite

CAUTION: Retrieving a kite is more difficult and dangerous than retrieving a board.   Be careful to avoid getting tangled in the kite lines.

1. •Approach the kite from the side or from slightly down wind.  The bar and lines will be trailing upwind from the kite.
   

2. •Slow down you approach the kite
   

3. •Reach down with one hand and grab the leading edge.  Caution: be careful to avoid getting tangled in the bridle lines or the kite lines
   

4. •Head towards the shore towing the kite, holding it by the leading edge
   

GEAR FOR KITEBOARDING/KITESURFING

Kites

Page at a glance

Details about kites used for kitesurfing.

Your kite is your engine.  Research kite characteristics that will suit your style of riding and skill level and make your selection carefully.  Don't buy a second hand kite that you know little or nothing about then attempt to use it.  Some stores will push particular kite brands so it is worth shopping around to seek different opinion and kite options.

Some factors to consider when choosing a kite:

1. •Good de-power is arguably the most important feature and safety factor.  Older C kites had limited de-power, while the advent of Bow Kites provided close to 100% de-power
   

2. •Durability - lighter kites might fly and turn faster, but they are also more prone to ripping in a big crash.
   

3. •Wear protectors on abrasion points - particularly the leading edge and wing tips - can prevent wear and tear damage while self-launching and self-landing.
   

4. •Easy re-launching is a big plus while learning
   

5. •Heavy bar pressure will tire your arms more compared to lighter bar pressure
   

Read the manual that comes with your kite so you thoroughly understand its controls and characteristics.

UV light will damage and weaken kite fabric.  Don't leave it on the beach in the sun for long periods when you are not using it.

Attach a small cord loop on your de-power adjustment (if it is above the bar) so that you will know instantly which it is, and to make it easier to reach.

Kite types

C-Kites were the first type of inflatable kites used for kitesurfing.  

1. •C-shape leading edge
   

2. •Direct feel
   

3. •Often have less de-power than other kite types
   

4. •Used for unhooked wake-style and advanced freestyle riding
   

Ozone C-kite C4

Bow kites first appeared in 2006 (such as the Cabrinha Crossbow) and offer very good de-power

1. •Flatter canopy than a C kite
   

2. •Bridle system (with or without pulleys) for controlling the leading edge
   

3. •Easy and effective de-power
   

4. •Handle a wide wind range
   

5. •Can be used by riders of any skill level.
   

Cabrinha Crossbow bow kite 2009

Delta kites have a delta (triangular) shape and have good power and de-power characteristics

1. •Very easy relaunch
   

2. •Good stability
   

3. •Full de-power
   

4. •Good for freestyle, wave riding and racing
   

F-one Bandit 3 Delta kite

Hybrid kites combine characteristics of bow, delta and C-kites

1. •Design aims to combine the best attributes of 2 or more kite types
   

Ben Wilson Noise and Slingshot Octane 2010 hybrid kites

Foil kites use the wind to form their shape.  They do not have bladders for flotation.

1. •These are not commonly used for kitesurfing now, but some people prefer them
   

2. •If you let go of the bar the kite will fly by itself to zenith
   

3. •Good light wind and upwind performance
   

4. •No pumping up required
   

5. •Will not relaunch when completely wet
   

6. •Little or no buoynacy
   

7. •Sometimes referred to as "doonas"
   

Flysurfer Speed 3

Choose the right kite size

Choosing the right kite size for the combination of wind conditions and your body weight is a critical for safe and enjoyable kitesurfing.  Getting overpowered is no fun at all, and you might get hurt.

If in doubt, use a smaller kite rather than larger kite.

As a guide, Greg (85kg/190lbs) uses:

1. •Wind 12-20 knots: 12m Noise
   

2. •Wind 20-30 knots: 10m Switchblade
   

3. •Wind 30-40 knots: 7m Crossbow
   

4. •
   

5. •Zach (75kg/165lbs) uses:
   

6. •Wind 15-25 knots: 10m Switchblade
   

7. •Wind 25-40 knots: 7m Crossbow
   

Bar and lines

Details about the control bar and lines used to control system the kite.

The kite bar is the control system for your kite.  With it you can accelerate, slow down, turn and jump.  They also include safety release systems.  Kite bars have evolved considerably over time.   There are many different configurations between manufacturers and also between years and models of kites.  

Bar and line types

The three most common bar and line types are:

4 line bars (most common)

1. •Two centre lines attached to chicken loop and leading edge of kite for de-power, by changing the angle of attack of the kite
   

2. •Two outside lines attach each wingtip of the kite to the respective end of the bar. 
   

1. ◦These lines power up the kite and turn it.
   

2. ◦Left bar end and line ends are usually color coded yellow or red.  
   

3. ◦Right bar end and lines are usually color coded black.  
   

3. 5 line bars (not so common)
   

4. •As per the 4 line system, but with a 5th line (usually) attached on the leading edge to de-power the kite and assist in relaunching it.
   

2 line bars

1. •These are found on training kites and some light-wind kites. 
   

2. •They usually have a wrist leash attached to one of the lines so that the kite will de-power when the bar is released.
   

Always use the bar and lines that are specific for your kite.  Get replacement lines specific for your model and year of kite.  Different line lengths could change your kite control characteristics dangerously.

Bar configurations

Bar configurations vary considerably.  The two main types are:

Above the bar de-power

1. •De-power adjustment is above the bar, which keeps it out of the way, but can make it difficult to reach.
   

Cabrinha IDS PowerDrive bar 2010

Below the bar de-power

1. •De-power adjustment is below the bar, which make it easier to reach, but may be more difficult to adjust
   

Ben Wilson Surf Undertow bar 2011

Read your kite owners manual very carefully to learn how to use the bar controls, including safety releases, leash attachment points and power/de-power adjustment

Boards

Page at a glance

Details about boards used for kitesurfing and kiteboarding.

Kitesurfing first started using directional boards. Later, bi-directional twin tip boards were developed and became the predominant board type.  The good news is, you can have one or more of each.  Both have their advantages in different conditions.

Board types:

1. •Twin-tip: the most common board. Used for free-ride, wake-style, cruising.  Foot pads and straps secure your feet.
   

2. •Wake-style: a shorter twin-tip board with bindings (boots) to secure the feet.
   

3. •Wake-skate: similar to a wake-style board but with no bindings and the surfaced covered by grip-tape.  Used for a variety of tricks.
   

4. •Wave: a surfboard optimized for kitesurfing with foot pads and mounts for straps.
   

5. •Race: a directional board optimized for speed with longer fins
   

Twin tips

Twin-tip boards have become standard for use in flat water or small surf conditions.

Naish Haze 144cm

Factors to consider when purchasing a twin tip board:

1. •Shorter boards need more wind compared to longer boards; if in doubt get a longer board.  I am 6'1" and use a 144cm board.
   

2. •Shorter boards are better for jumping as they weigh less and create less centrifugal force while doing spinning tricks
   

3. •Longer boards are more stable at high speeds, and a longer rail is more efficient for edging
   

4. •Wider boards are easier to get planing compared to narrow boards
   

5. •Adjustable foot straps makes it easy to adjust them to accommodate booties in winter
   

Use a smaller board in higher winds for more control, and a larger board in lighter winds for better planing.

Write your name and telephone number on your board. If you lose it, it may be returned to you by someone who finds it.

Use a board bag.  It will protect you board from damage in cars, and prevents water and sand from the board getting inside your car.

Wave surfboards

Surfboards, with our without straps, a favored by kitesurfers who ride bigger waves.  Some prefer to use them on flat water too.  The extra flotation of the board means you can ride a wave under its own power.

Factors to consider when purchasing a directional board:

1. •Shorter boards have less flotation but may be easier to carve turns with.
   

2. •Most big wave kitesurfers use a tri-fin (Thruster) board for optimum turning.
   

3. •Epoxy boards are much stronger than fiberglass ones.  Kitesurfing puts more load on your board than surfing.
   

4. •A strapless board can be used for both kitesurfing (once you learn how to use it) and for surfing, which is a good option for travel.
   

Practice riding a directional board on flat water before you venture into big surf.  Directional boards handle and turn quite differently to twin tips.  You tend to be more "on the water" rather than carving deeply into it as you do with thinner twin tips.  You use both the rail and the fins for turning. Master toe-side riding.

Take spare fins if you are going overseas to remote locations.

Race boards

Race boards are specifically designed for kite course racing, and excel in upwind and downwind/reaching speed.  Race boards can be hand made to order. The rocker, board outline, volume displacement, foot strap and fin positions are all designed for one purpose – upwind/downwind speed.

Naish Venturi race board

Harness

Details about kitesurfing harnesses advantages of different types

The two main types of kitesurfing harness: seat and waist.  It is also possible to get a seat harness incorporated with board shorts.

seat harness with line knife

waist harness

harness pouch

Kitesurfing harness pouch in use

Try a harness out before you buy it if you have the option.  Some kitesurfing shops may have a rope you can hook onto and lean back to assess the comfort and fit of the harness.

A latch system on the harness is easier to operate than threading straps through buckles, but wash it out in fresh water after every session to avoid rust.

You can attach a harness pouch (pictured above) to the webbing on your harness, and use it to store small items of gear such as a GPS, mobile phone or waterproof money container.

Buoyancy vests

Details about buoyancy vest types and usage for kitesurfing.

Buoyancy/impact vests (also known as Personal Flotation Devices or PFDs) provide some impact protection and additional safety.  In some countries, such as Australia and Canada, it is a legal requirement for kitesurfers to wear a PFD as they are classified as a "sailing vessel" under marine law.

Type 1 PFD

1. •There are designed to fully support you in the water, including flotation behind your head to keep you head up
   

2. •Standard versions are bulky and cumbersome to wear
   

3. •Inflatable versions are slim but provide no flotation until they are inflated - there are two versions: manually inflation via a toggle cord, and automatically inflated on contact with water
   

Type 1 PFDs - Inflatable

Type 2 PFD

1. •Provide flotation and some padding, but not behind the head
   

2. •Slimmer fit that a Type 1 PFD
   

3. •A bright color with some reflective tape
   

4. •Suitable for use during night time
   

5. •Canoeing versions often have pockets for storing equipment and/or a water bladder
   

Type 2 PFD made for canoeing. Note front pocket.

Type 3 PFD

1. •A slim fit flotation garment that also provides impact resistance
   

2. •Often designed for water sports such as water skiing and wake boarding behind boats
   

3. •Not suitable for use at night
   

4. •Usually no pockets for gadgets
   

Type 3 PFD

Kitesurfing impact vests

1. •Impact vests are specifically designed for kitesurfing, with padding around the torso to protect from impact injuries
   

2. •Kitesurfing models are designed to keep clear of the harness
   

3. •Usually equivalent to a Type 3 PFD - but may not be rated as such.  Check the labels inside the garment.
   

NPX neoprene impact vest for kitesurfing

Kitesurfing PFDs provide good protecting from impacts when you start doing jumps, in addition to providing some helpful flotation. They can also provide additional warmth in cooler conditions.

Check your local state and/or country regulations on use of PFDs, and when buying one, check it complies with relevant standards. 

Safety leash

Details about safety leashes and how to use them.  It is vital that you connect the safety leash to the correct part of your bar/lines and you know how to use the safety release.

A safety leash (sometimes also called a "bypass leash" or a "handlepass leash") is used to keep you connected to the kite when you deploy your main safety release or you let go of the control bar while riding unhooked.   The safety release connects to a specific part of your line/control system so that full de-power is activated when the kite is on it.  It is very important to use the safety leash in accordance with the kite and control bar manufacturer's instructions.  Attachment points can vary between manufacturers and between kite/bar models.

The safety leash also has its own safety release so that you can completely jettison the kite if you need to.  

Safety leash

1. •One end of the safety leash is attached to your harness, usually to the spreader bar.  This end will have it own safety release very close to this attachment point.
   

2. •The other end of the safety leash attaches to a part of the line/control system that will de-power the kite when the leash is deployed.  Make sure you connect the leash to the appropriate place for your kite/line system.  
   

Warning: If you connect your safety leash to the wrong part of your line/control system it may not function correctly and could cause lofting or catastrophic equipment failure which could result in injury.  The information on this page is provided for guidance only and may not be appropriate for your kite/line/bar system.

Warning: If in doubt about where to connect your safety leash to your kite/line system seek expert assistance.  

NOTE: The following examples are provided as a guide only. You must check your kite/control manuals to find the appropriate connection method for your kite.

Cabrinha Powerdrive 221 control system - circa 2008

For the Cabrinha Powerdrive 221 control system, the manufacturer recommends that you connect the leash to one of two points:

Attachment Point 1:Trapezoid above chicken loop

1. •The leash will secure kite if the chicken loop is unhooked from the harness hook and you drop or throw the bar
   

2. •Your kite will be fully released if you deploy the main safety release. The leash will not secure the kite if you deploy the main safety release (above the chicken loop), unless there is an additional line attachment.  
   

Attachment Point 2: Main de-power line above the main safety release.

1. •The leash will secure kite if the chicken loop is unhooked from the harness hook and you drop or throw the bar
   

2. •The leash will secure the kite if you deploy the main safety release (above the chicken loop) 
   

3. •To fully release the kite you will need to deploy the secondary safety release on the safety leash (near the spreader bar attachment)
   

Cabrinha Powerdrive IDS Control system - circa 2010

For the Cabrinha Powerdrive IDS control system, the manufacturer recommends that you connect the leash to the trapezoid above the chicken loop as follows:

1. •If you are riding unhooked, or the chicken loop becomes unhooked, and you drop the bar, the kite will then be secured by the safety leash.
   

2. •When you deploy the main release, the safety leash will not come into play, the kite will then be attached by the secondary IDS line.
   

Caution: If strong tension comes on the IDS line suddenly the IDS velcro strap system can release by itself, fully releasing the kite.  You can grasp the IDS velcro strap system with one hand if the main safety release is deployed to prevent this happening.

The secondary IDS (Intelligent De-power System) line connected to the chicken loop by the IDS velcro strap system can be released as follows:

1. Pull on the IDS release handle loop as per red arrow above

2. IDS line (landing line) is then disconnected from the chicken loop, and the kite is fully disconnected from you.

Some riders prefer to attach the safety release to the ring on the IDS line (landing line) so that the kite will remain on the safety leash when the main safety release and the IDS velcro strap system are deployed.  If you use this attachment point there are three steps to completely release the kite: 

1. 1.Deploy the main release - kite is then secured by IDS line (landing line)
   

2. 2.Deploy the IDS velcro strap system - kite is then secured by safety leash connected to IDS line
   

3. 3.Deploy the safety release on the safety leash - kite is completely released.
   

This connection method is not recommended when using the kite in large surf as fully releasing the kite can take too long. 

Ben Wilson Surf Undertow bar release system - circa 2011

Ben Wilson Surf Undertow bar

The safety leash attaches to the ring inside the chicken loop.

The safety release sequence for this control system is:

1. 1.Deploy the main safety release (plastic ring fitting at the top of the chicken loop) - the kite is then secured by the safety leash attached to the safety line.
   

2. 2.Deploy the safety release on the safety leash - kite is completely released.
   

Suicide leash attachment

A suicide leash attachment is when you attach the safety leash to the chicken loop.  This is similar to attaching the safety leash to the trapezoid above the chicken loop.  

1. •This attachment method is considered dangerous for C-Kites as it does not fully de-power the kite when the main safety release is deployed, hence the term "suicide leash" 
   

2. •This attachment method is safer on Bow kites, but the safety leash will not hold the kite when the main safety release is deployed.
   

External links

1. •Connecting your Safety Leash (Correctly)  - Kiteboarding Victoria 
   

2. •INSTRUCTIONAL: Where Does the Kite Leash Go? - The Kiteboarder Magazine
   

Sunglasses

Using appropriate sunglasses for kitesurfing has the following benefits:

1. •UV protection
   

2. •Protect your eyes from spray
   

3. •Increase your comfort and improve your vision on sunny days.  
   

Second hand gear

Buying second hand gear is a cheap way to start kitesurfing but be careful what you buy.  

Buying second hand gear is a cheap way to start kitesurfing.  When you are learning kitesurfing it can be tough on your kite as you will crash it into the water occasionally, sometimes hard.  If you buy good second hand gear it will serve you well, and you can upgrade the latest and greatest kit after your first year if you want too.  You can also sometimes score last year's kite model for a significant discount just when the new model comes out.

Don't buy or attempt to use second hand gear that you know little or nothing about, or is older than 4 years.  For example, some older models of kites did not have 100% de-power and can be very dangerous - or even fatal - to use when learning.  

Pros

1. •You can buy a complete set of secondhand gear (board, kite + bar, harness), depending on condition, anywhere from A$600 to A$2000. (Price ranges for new gear are: Kite: A$900 to A$2000, Board: A$750 to A$1300, Harness: A$120 to A$250.  
   

2. •You won't worry too much about damaging your kite if you crash it while learning
   

3. •You don't a need high performance kite or board; its better to go for gear that is easier to use while learning.
   

Cons

1. •Gear that has been used a lot may be worn out and fail.  Kite fabric and lines weaken with UV exposure so try to avoid buying something that is obviously very worn or faded.
   

2. •Second hand kites will often have minor and sometimes major repairs.  Repairs can be another potential point of failure, but are usually OK if done well.
   

3. •Harnesses wear out with use too - buckles and straps can fail.  Check for worn or frayed straps, particularly around the bar attachments.
   

4. •Boards can de-laminate and break - but its not too hard to see the condition of the board on inspection
   

5. •Buying gear unseen over the Internet entails more risk as you can't inspect it well.  The price may be good, but the quality may not be what you expect.
   

It may be safer to buy second hand gear from an experienced kitesurfing friend or a kitesurfing shop

Where to get second hand kitesurfing gear

Some options for second hand gear are:

1. •Local kiteboarding shop - they can also provide advice on what is best for your skill level.
   

2. •Kitesurfing friends. Someone may have some old gear they are no longer using.
   

Gear Maintenance

Information and tips for maintaining kitesurfing gear

Look after your gear and it will look after you.

Before every session

1. •Inspect your lines while laying them out
   

2. •Check your kite fabric, particularly near the leading edge.
   

After every session

1. •Rinse your gear in freshwater after a session, particularly the bar, lines and harness.
   

2. •Dry the gear out before storing it.
   

When packing your kite on coarse sand - pull the kite wingtips together so the kite is folded in half, then roll up the kite with both wingtips together. This prevents sand getting inside the kite, that can work its way into seams and cause wear and tear

Every 10-15 sessions

1. •Pulleys: Apply silicone spray every ten to fifteen sessions.  Check them for wear and tear and replace any that are seized or worn.
   

2. •Bridle attachments: Check for wear and tear
   

3. •Board: check all screws mounting fins, board handle (if fitted) and foot straps and tighten them if necessary.  For additional security, screws will bind better if you use medium-strength Locktite.
   

If screws on your board keep working loose, use some medium strength Locktite to secure them.

A couple of times each season

1. •Pump shaft: Apply silicon spray, then wipe off the shaft and body - 
   

2. •Bag zips: Apply silicon spray or zip lube when stiff
   

3. •Washing your kite in freshwater can remove a lot of accumulated salt and grime and lighten it up a bit.
   

Kite repairs

Kites: Small fabric tears and cuts can be fixed with stick on patches.  You might get some supplied with a new kite or you can buy them from kitesurfing shops.

When applying a patch to your kite, first swab the area to patch with alcohol (such as methylated spirits) to clean it.  Trim off corners of the patch so they are rounded.  Carefully peel of the backing then firmly push on the patch.  Apply one a patch on both the inside and the outside of the fabric.

Lines.  Lines that become furry over time can be treated with beeswax.  Lines with abrasions or nicks should be replaced.  A line breaking while on the water is not much fun.

Be careful to keep sand out of your larks-head knots when attaching your lines to the kite.  Any sand in the knot will abrade inside the leader loops and reduce their service life.

Weather

CAUTION: You should not kitesurf in winds above 25 knots until you have one years experience or have logged at least 30 sessions.

Good wind is a prerequisite for kitesurfing.  Checking wind and weather forecasts in advance, and assessing them on arrival at your location, will increase both your enjoyment and your safety. 

Strong gusts can overpower you and send you airborne with very serious consequences. You can wreck your gear, get seriously injured, or even lose your life.  If in doubt, don't go out.

Assess the wind direction carefully.  Cross-onshore is best for kitesurfing.  You can kitesurf in other wind directions but they pose different challenges.  

The following steps provide a guide for assessing wind conditions.

1. Check local Internet sites for a good forecast www.weather.com

2. Check Internet sites for for current conditions

3. Check upwind locations to see what is coming

4. Check Internet weather radar for any squalls, thunderstorms and rainfall

5. Choose your location based on wind direction. Aim for sideshore or cross-onshore wind.  Avoid offshore winds.

6. 6.Keep an eye out for weather and wind changes once on the water
   

Come in and land your kite as soon as possible if you see storms coming, or the wind speed increases significantly when you are on the water.

There have been occasions when kiters have ignored obvious weather and wind changes and suffered serious consequences. Note that a squall can miss you but the gust front can still blast you from the side of the storm cell.

SAFETY AND RULES FOR KITESURFING/KITEBOARDING

Hand signals

Knowing hand signals is essential.  Level: basic

It is not always easy to hear someone from a distance, or on a beach with the wind blowing hard.  Kitesurfers use the following standard hand signals to communicate:

Hazards

Some common hazards you may encounter kitesurfing, and how to avoid them.

There are some hazards with kitesurfing associated with marine environments and weather.  Local knowledge is invaluable here in assessing and managing risks associated with hazards.

Jellyfish.  Sometimes jellyfish can be a nuisance if there are large quantities of them near the surface.  Some jellyfish can also sting you and cause irritation.  In the tropics, there may be jellyfish with very strong venom at some times of the year that inflict extreme pain or even death.  

1. •Check local conditions where you are kiting, and dress accordingly.  
   

2. •You can wear a stinger suit if necessary.
   

Sea urchins. If you stand a sea urchin the spines can cause severe puncture wounds that are also prone to infection.  

1. •Wear wetsuit or reef booties if there are sea urchins about.
   

Sharks. It is very unlikely you will be bothered by sharks while kitesurfing if you are up and going.  However, if the wind drops and you end up in the water for extended period and there are sharks about, they may become a problem.   Some kitesurfers have been killed by sharks in these circumstances.  

1. •Check your location carefully regarding shark populations.  
   

2. •You can minimize the risk of shark attack by not traveling too far off shore if there are sharks about.
   

Storms. Regular consistent sea breezes provide the best wind for kitesurfing as they are usually smooth and steady.  By contrast, storms usually have fronts associated with them that can result in a rapid increase in wind speed and change of direction.  It may be tempting to go out in winter storms if you have been off the water for a while, but exercise great caution if you do.  There have been cases of kiters becoming rapidly overpowered, lofted and carried significant distances downwind, sometimes impacting with solid objects with injury or death resulting.  

1. •In general, beginner and intermediate riders are best advised to avoid storm conditions.  
   

2. •Be warned – don’t mess with storms.
   

Getting lofted. If you are are over powered (e.g strong wind and kite too large) the risk of getting lofted high into the air increases.   Once lofted, you can be carried a considerable distance and impact with boats, rock walls, parked cars, houses, trees and even power lines.  This has caused fatalities.

1. •You can minimize the risk of lofting by avoiding weather conditions where strong and variable winds are forecast (e.g. northerlies in Australia, coming off land)
   

2. •Never fly your kite above your head on the beach.  Keep is low and at the edge of the wind window.  Land it as soon as you can.
   

3. •Deploy your safety and release the kite quickly if you get yanked.  Better to fall a few meters than to get carried higher and into much more danger.
   

4. •If the wind is increasing significantly, come in and land your kite before it gets too strong.
   

Sunburn.  Being on the water for long sessions increases the risk of sunburn.  Wearing long shorts and a full length rash vest provides some protection.  A steamer wetsuit is better.  Use suncream on exposed skin such as your face and ears.

Fatigue.  Kitesurfing is exciting.  During a good session you can so hyped up you lose track of how tired you are getting.  Mistakes increase with fatigue, and your ability to recover from them diminishes.  Come in before your arms turn to jelly.

Crocodiles.  In some tropical locations, crocodiles can be a hazard.  Local knowledge is the key to assessing and managing this risk.  

1. •If the local say there are crocs about, don't go in, or buy a Lottery ticket if you do.
   

2. •Avoid close proximity to river mouths were crocs live
   

3. •The sometimes cruise out to see, so if you are in croc country keep your eyes open and come in quick if you spot one. 
   

Getting blown out to sea.   This will only happen if you crash your kite, cannot relaunch it, and the wind direction is cross-offshore or offshore.

1. •Avoiding cross-offshore or offshore wind directions will minimize the risk of getting blown out to see.
   

2. •You could get rescued by a boat if there is one available.  Rescue boards are available at some locations if you pay a fee for their service, or you might get lucky and be offered assistance by another water craft.
   

3. •You can also release your kite, leave your board and swim back to shore.  If you are using a surfboard you can paddle it back to sure.  You may lose the kite, but this is better than losing your life!
   

Jumping in shallow water.  Do not jump in shallow water!  If you lose control of the kite or get disoriented you may impact the bottom and break you leg, ankle, back or neck.  It is simply not worth the risk.  Go out to deeper water for jumps, and maintain appropriate downwind clearance for other kiters and solid objects.

Boats and yachts.   Kitesurfers travel fast and can impact other water craft.  With 25 meters of kite line, your kite can also get tangled around the mast of a yacht if you get too close.  Fishermen may have lines out some distance from their boat. Maintain a safe distance (at least 50m) from other water craft.

Whales and Dugongs.  Keep a good lookout if you are kitesurfing in a location where there are Whales or Dugongs about.  While they are likely to sense you coming and dive, it is possible your board may impact and injure or even kill them.  You might get injured too.  Slow down if you think you see something and take immediate evasive action by veering downwind or turning around.

Turtles.  It is common to see turtles grazing on coral reefs is some tropical areas.  As for Whales and Dugongs, they will usually dive when they see you coming, but kitesurfers should take evasive action to avoid impact.

Hang gliders.  Some beach locations, such as 4 Mile Beach (Port Douglas, Australia) can be used at times by both hang gliders (powered or landing) and kitesurfers.  A hang glider will crash if it hits kite lines. If any hang gliders are coming in to land all kites flying on or near the landing zone should be landed to clear the airspace.

CLEAR guidelines

CLEAR guidelines - Conditions, Look, Equipment, Attitude, Respect

Guidelines to provide a checklist for safe and enjoyable kitesurfing.  Level: basic

CONDITIONS - assess:

1. •Wind strength and direction
   

2. •Waves, tides, currents and rips
   

3. •The weather forecast
   

LOOK - before you launch, jump, jibe (turn), land

EQUIPMENT - always:

1. •Complete your pre-flight safety check
   

2. •Always use a kite leash
   

3. •Use a quick release on anything you connect too
   

4. •Practice using your safety systems - you need to use them instinctively
   

5. •Never exceed manufacturers specifications - particularly the wind range for your kite size
   

ATTITUDE

1. •Seek and listen to local advice
   

2. •Don't exceed your limitations - come in before you get too tired.  Accidents and mistakes happen when you are fatigued.
   

3. •Use your judgement.  If in doubt don't go out, or don't do it.
   

RESPECT

1. •Others, including all water and beach users,
   

2. •The law
   

3. •Fellow kiters - know the Right of Way Rules
   

4. •The environment
   

Right of way rules

Explanation of right of way rules that apply to other kitesurfers and craft on the water.  Level: basic

Right of way rules determine who has the "right of way" and who should "yield, or get out of the way" when passing.

1. •A kiter on a starboard tack (right hand and shoulder forwards) has right of way.
   

2. •A kiter on a port tack (left hand and shoulder forwards) must yield right of way (get out the way).
   

3. •For two kiters on the same tack, the kiteboarder upwind must give way to the kitesurfer downwind.
   

While passing in opposite directions:

1. •the upwind kiteboarder must fly their kite high,
   

2. •the kiteboarder downwind must fly their kite low
   

In surf:

1. •Kiters leaving the shore (outgoing) have right of way over incoming riders.  Riders close to shore or negotiating broken water are more at risk, so they have the right of way
   

2. •Kiters riders on a wave have right of way over other riders, except for outgoing riders as above.
   

 Don't ever assume you have right of way or insist on taking it - the other kitesurfer or vessel may know that or may not be looking. 

 If two kites collide and the lines get tangled, throw your bar and release your safety immediately.  Two tangled kites have twice the power and no control.  Under power, kite lines will abrade and cut each other.  If both kiters release their kites they are likely to separate themselves.

Etiquette

Good etiquette makes kitesurfing more enjoyable and will ensure that locations remain available.  Level: basic

Kitesurfing is now a very popular sport.  As the sport gains in popularity and the number of riders increases, we need to ensure other beach goers and water craft are respected.  Kites and kite lines can also be very dangerous.  Good etiquette is not just about being nice, its about being safe too.

Tips

1. •Keep your kite well clear of others.  Kites are big and intimidating to many other beach users.  Do not fly your kite low over other people on the beach or in the water.    Overflying pedestrians, roads and other people's property is one the biggest causes of complaints against kitesurfers.
   

2. •Use designated areas for rigging and landing kites.  
   

3. •Use designated access lanes only for leaving and returning to the shore.
   

4. •As a general rule kiters are expected to remain 50 meters from a beach.
   

5. •Don't drop in on (or snake) other kiters waves.  
   

6. •Keep well clear of any surfers or windsurfers.  
   

7. •Watch out for any swimmers offshore - they can be very hard to see in a swell or chop.
   

8. •Help other kiters launch and land their kites, or if they end up in danger or distress.  
   

External links

1. •Kitesurfing Code of Conduct, NSW Kiteboarding Association 
   

Clearance rules and kiting zones

Information on clearance rules and kiting zones that must be adhered to.  Level: basic

Clearance rules designate appropriate speeds within proximity to people, other water craft and objects.  These are often subject to local regulation and laws, so make sure you check which rules apply to your country, state or location.

Kitesurfers are classified as sailing vessels in many countries and must adhere to all applicable rules and regulations.  Regulations can differ between countries, and between states within a country, so check local regulations when kitesurfing at a new location.

In MOST COUNTRIES:

1. •Kiters must not exceed 5 knots within 200m of the shore, 50m of a jetty, 50m of a person, or 50m from another vessel (moored or underway) or any object (including buoys or pilings) in the water.
   

2. •A person must not launch, release, operate, fly or land a kite within 45 meters of a relevant installation that is above the ground (this applies to other any aircraft and model aircraft too).
   

3. •‘No boating’ and ‘swimming only’ zones may not be used for kitesurfing.
   

4. •Only jump when you have a clear safety zone 50m downwind and 30m upwind.
   

5. •Some areas designated as kitesurfing zones, where the 5 knot speed limit within 200m of shore does NOT apply.
   

Avoid kitesurfing in  NO GO and CAUTION ZONES

No Go zones

Information about No Go zones where you must not kitesurf. Level: basic

Avoid kiting in No-go and Caution areas.  These are usually designated by signage, but you should also ask locals and check the Internet when kiting at a new location about whether any no-go zones are there.

No Go zones include:

1. •designated swimming zones
   

2. •exclusions zones near the approach to airports
   

3. •shipping channels (you may be able to cross them, but must maintain good clearance from large ships)
   

4. •ferry terminals
   

Injuries

While kitesurfing is quite safe when approached and learnt correctly, injuries can happen.  Understanding some common injuries may help you avoid them.  Level: basic to advanced

While kitesurfing is basically a safe sport if you get appropriate training and exercise caution, it can be fast and furious and injuries are possible.  For any serious injury, seek medical treatment immediate.

All these injuries are avoidable if you follow safety guidelines and kite within your ability.

Tennis Elbow

1. •If you do a lot of kitesurfing you can develop a form of Tennis Elbow - painful inflammation of tendon attachments in the lower arm.  
   

2. •Visit a doctor, rest and use anti inflammatories (follow medical advice)
   

Burst ear drum

1. •This can occur if the side of your head has a major impact on the water, even if you are wearing a helmet.  This could occur if you get lofted or stuff up your landing after a jump.
   

2. •A burst ear drum can heal over a 5 week period, but may require an operation if it doesn't.  Don't go in the water while it is healing.
   

Impact injuries

1. •These occur if you hit something hard, most often as a result of being lofted and carried into something solid, or if you kite to close to a solid object and hit it.
   

2. •Avoid getting lofted and kiting near solid objects.  
   

Broken legs or feet

1. •Can occur if you jump in shallow water and land hard, or you get lofted on or onto solid ground.
   

2. •Don't jump in shallow water or near the shore, and avoid getting lofted by keeping your kite low.
   

Sunburn

1. •The water can cool you skin so you don't notice sunburn happening.  
   

2. •Wear suncream and protective clothing or wetsuit.
   

Groin injuries

1. •Can occur if you have one foot in a foot strap (e.g. of a directional board) and the board gets twisted and yanked by a wave, which in turn stretches groin muscles and ligaments.
   

2. •Be careful when you have one foot in a foot strap (e.g. going upwind).  Have both your feet in foot straps when getting out through surf.
   

Hitting the board  

1. •You can be dragged into your board if you have come off it, or it can be dragged into you if you wear a board leash
   

2. •Don't wear a board leash.  
   

Line cuts  

1. •Kite lines can cause serious injuries if they wrap around any part of you and get powered up by the kite
   

2. •Be careful during self rescue to avoid getting any lines wrapped around you, particularly your legs while swimming.
   

3. •Carry a line knife and cut the lines if you to get tangled.
   

External links

1. •Web Resources for Kiteboarders on preventing injuries and/or dealing with them, Elaine Stevenson.
   

All tips

All the kitesurfing tips included in this handbook. 

These are all the tips we have included in this handbook.

Learning

1. •Buy and use a TRAINER KITE, preferably with a bar, to improve your kite flying skills before you start kiting.
   

2. •Take at least 5 lessons with a qualified kitesurfing instructor.  There is no safe substitute for this.  Learning from friends or by yourself is likely to compromise your and other's safety.  Remember how you learnt to drive.
   

3. •Join your local Kiteboarding Association.  Your local Kiteboarding Association runs kiteboarding events, including social ones, liaises with local governments to retain access to kiting locations, and may also offer you 3rd party insurance.
   

4. •
   

5. •SAFETY
   

6. •CAUTION: Do not learn to fly a full size kitesurfing kite on a beach or any other land - this is the most dangerous place to fly your kite.  If you are a novice, take lessons and head out into the water at a safe location to learn.
   

7. •Ask other kiters about any new location you start kiting at so you can avoid any hazards and kitesurfing exclusion zones, some of which might not be obvious.
   

8. •Practice using your safety releases when it is safe to do so.
   

9. •Check the weather forecast and avoid storms and strong weather changes. A lot of kiters have been injured when wind speeds dramatically increase and they get lofted or dragged somewhere unpleasant, or even fatal.
   

10. •Don't jump in shallow water.  It looks cool on the beach, and you know you can land it, but if you don’t you can easily break your ankle, leg or neck.
    

11. •Wear a helmet when you are learning.  I still wear my surf helmet as it keeps my sunglasses secure on my head and it has protected me from a few nasty bumps.
    

12. •We don't recommend going out in wind greater than 40 knots. 
    

13. •You should not go out in wind speeds above 25 knots during your first year and have logged 30 sessions.
    

14. •Complete your pre-flight safety check before heading out
    

15. •Always use a quick release on anything you connect too
    

16. •Practice using your safety systems - you need to use them instinctively
    

17. •Never exceed manufacturers specifications - particularly the wind range for your kite size
    

18. •Don't exceed your limitations - come in before you get too tired.  Accidents and mistakes happen when you are fatigued.
    

19. •Use your judgement.  If in doubt don't go out, or don't do it.
    

20. •Don't ever assume you have right of way or insist on taking it - the other kitesurfer or vessel may know that or may not be looking. 
    

21. •If two kites collide and the lines get tangled, throw your bar and release your safety immediately.  Two tangled kites have twice the power and no control.  Under power, kite lines will abrade and cut each other.  If both kiters release their kites they are likely to separate themselves.
    

22. •CAUTION: Kitesurfing storm fronts is for strong intermediate or advanced riders only.  It is definitely not for beginners.
    

23. •Kite lines can cause serious injuries if they wrap around any part of you and get powered up by the kite.  Keep clear of the lines during self rescue, paying particular attention to your legs if you are swimming after the kite.
    

24. •Do not fly your kite at 12 O'Clock when on the beach.  A strong gust of wind with the kite in this position could result in you being lofted into the air and carried some distance, with a high risk of impact with something solid.  Injuries and deaths have resulted from this.
    

25. •CAUTION: Do not kite in offshore or cross-offshore winds unless you are experienced and have a boat backup.
    

26. •CAUTION: Kitesurfers are classified as sailing vessels in many countries and must adhere to all applicable rules and regulations.  Regulations can differ between countries, and between states within a country, so check local regulations when kitesurfing at a new location.
    

27. •SAFETY LEASH
    

28. •Always use a safety leash
    

29. •WARNING: If you connect your safety leash to the wrong part of your line/control system it may not function correctly and could cause lofting or catastrophic equipment failure which could result in injury.  The information on this page is provided for guidance only and may not be appropriate for your kite/line/bar system.
    

30. •WARNING: If in doubt about where to connect your safety leash to your kite/line system seek expert assistance.
    

31. •CAUTION: If strong tension comes on the IDS line suddenly the IDS velcro strap system can release by itself, fully releasing the kite.  You can grasp the IDS velcro strap system with one hand if the main safety release is deployed to prevent this happening. 
    

32. •Some riders prefer to attach the safety leash to the ring on the Cabrinha IDS line (landing line) so that the kite will remain on the safety leash when the main safety release and the IDS velcro strap system are deployed. 
    

Kites

1. •Research carefully the best kite, board and harness for your style of kiting and buy new or good second hand equipment.  Don’t save money by buying an old kite that is difficult or dangerous to fly.  Make safety your first priority.
   

2. •Read the manual that comes with your kite so you thoroughly understand its controls and characteristics.
   

3. •The power and characteristics of kites can vary between manufacturers and models.  For example, some have a greater de-power range than others, and therefore can have a larger safe wind range.  Read your kite manual carefully and follow the manufacturer's recommendation on wind range.
   

4. •WARNING: Don't buy or attempt to use second hand gear that you know little or nothing about, or is older than 4 years.  For example, some older models of kites did not have 100% de-power and can be very dangerous - or even fatal - to use when learning.  
   

5. •Select a kite size for the wind and your body weight. 
   

6. •UV light will damage and weaken kite fabric.  Don't leave it on the beach in the sun for long periods when you are not using it.
   

7. •Attach a small cord loop on your de-power adjustment (if it is above the bar) so that you will know instantly which it is, and to make it easier to reach.
   

8. •Always use the bar and lines that are specific for your kite.  Get replacement lines specific for your model and year of kite.  Different line lengths could change your kite control characteristics dangerously.
   

9. •Read your kite owners manual very carefully to learn how to use the bar controls, including safety releases, leash attachment points and power/de-power adjustment
   

10. •It is common for beginners to under-inflate their kites.  This will affect the kite's flying characteristics and may result in it folding over if you crash it.  Pump your kite up hard.  Seek advice from nearby kiters on this.
    

11. •While it is good to know all three methods to rig lines, it is best to use one regularly and develop a fixed routine to eliminate errors.
    

12. •Use the same routine for connecting the lines to avoid crossing them.  Crossed lines can result in you completely losing control of the kite on launch, which can be very dangerous.
    

OTHER KITESURFING GEAR

       Use a smaller board in higher winds for more control, and a larger board in lighter winds for     better planing.

1. •Write your name and telephone number on your board. If you lose it, it may be returned to you by someone who finds it.
   

2. •Use a board bag.  It will protect you board from damage in cars, and prevents water and sand from the board getting inside your car.
   

3. •Kitesurfing PFDs provide good protecting from impacts when you start doing jumps, in addition to providing some helpful flotation. They can also provide additional warmth in cooler conditions.
   

4. •Check your local state and/or country regulations on use of PFDs, and when buying one, check it complies with relevant standards. 
   

5. •Try a harness out before you buy it if you have the option.  Some kitesurfing shops may have a rope you can hook onto and lean back to assess the comfort and fit of the harness.
   

6. •A latch system on the harness is easier to operate than threading straps through buckles, but wash it out in fresh water after every session to avoid rust.
   

7. •You can attach a harness pouch to the webbing on your harness, and use it to store small items of gear such as a GPS, mobile phone or waterproof money container.
   

8. •If you get water accumulating inside the wetsuit around your calves you can punch drain holes using a sharp nail from the inside the wetsuit just above the bottom of the legs to let water out.that are described as "waterproof" may let some water in and be destroyed .  It is best to put your GPS in waterproof pouch, which you can then put in the front pocket of a buoyancy vest, or in an waterproof arm pouch or harness accessory pouch.
   

9. •Check helmet impact rating and impact standards before you buy one.
   

1. •GEAR MAINTENANCE
   

2. •When packing your kite on coarse sand - pull the kite wingtips together so the kite is folded in half, then roll up the kite with both wingtips together. This prevents sand getting inside the kite, that can work its way into seams and cause wear and tear.
   

3. •When applying a patch to your kite, first swab the area to patch with alcohol (such as methylated spirits) to clean it.  Trim off corners of the patch so they are rounded.  Carefully peel of the backing then firmly push on the patch.  Apply one a patch on both the inside and the outside of the fabric.
   

4. •Be careful to keep sand out of your larks-head knots when attaching your lines to the kite.  Any sand in the knot will abrade inside the leader loops and reduce their service life.
   

5. •If screws on your board keep working loose, use some medium strength Locktite to secure them.
   

1. •RESPECT
   

2. •Look after your fellow kiters.  Our sport is friendly and pleasant.  Assisting kiters in need and helping each other out will keep everyone safe and having a nice time.  Its great to get assistance when you need it in return.
   

3. •Respect other beach and water users, and follow local rules and regulations.  The future of our sport hinges on keeping good relations with beach goers, other water craft and local residents and authorities.  You must  never crash your kite on a crowded beach, or on anybody or anything else. If in doubt, choose a quieter more suitable location. Incidents and accidents at kitesurfing locations could result in kitesurfing being banned.
   

4. •Learn and understand right of way rules, clearance rules, kiting zones and no go zones.
   

1. •FLYING THE KITE
   

2. •A kite flown out of the Wind Window will stall and is likely to fall out of the sky. 
   

3. •If your kite is about to stall, you can reach up and pull on the front lines to keep it flying.
   

4. •Use your de-power adjustment to reduce the power in the kite when self launching in stronger winds.  You can re-power it once it is flying if necessary.
   

5. •Fly the kite, fly the kite, fly the kite!  (a quote from Bruce Exton). If you crash, concentrate first on flying your kite.
   

1. •SKILLS AND TECHNIQUES - GENERAL
   

2. •Practice riding a directional board on flat water before you venture into big surf.  Directional boards handle and turn quite differently to twin tips.  You tend to be more "on the water" rather than carving deeply into it as you do with thinner twin tips.  You use both the rail and the fins for turning. Master toe-side riding.
   

3. •Take spare fins if you are going overseas to remote locations.
   

4. •Keep your kite at about 45 degrees with the kite as de-powered as much as possible while walking along a beach - this will keep you safe if there are gusty conditions about.  Having your kite high will leave you prone to wind gusts picking you up and landing you in places you don't want to be - roads, trees, backyards.   
   

5. •Try to keep the kite over water rather than over the beach - if the wind drops the kite will land safely rather than on people or in palm trees.
   

6. •A straight stance with hips forward help you go upwind.  Avoid crouching with both knees bent.
   

7. •WARNING: Self Launching and Self Landing a kite are advanced skills that are best learnt under instruction
   

8. •Avoid self landing wherever possible and particularly in strong and gusty winds.  Seek and assisted landing from a fellow kiter whenever possible.
   

9. •WARNING: If something goes wrong while self launching, quickly deploy your safety release then secure the kite.
   

10. •CAUTION: Riding Unhooked is an advanced skill for experienced kiters.
    

11. •Practice upwind Body Dragging BEFORE you need it.  It is harder to do in lighter winds, so practice makes perfect.   
    

12. •To generate maximum power for doing a water start in lighter winds, fly your kite first a short distance in the opposite direction, then bring it back in your direction of when diving it through the power zone.  For example, if you are doing a water start for a right (starboard) tack, first fly your kite to 11 O'Clock (left quadrant) then bring it to 12 O'Clock, then dive it into the right quadrant of the wind window.
    

13. •If your kite lands on the water or the beach with its trailing edge down and the wind is light 
    

14. •you can do a hot launch by pulling on the front lines. The kite will fly straight up.  Do not attempt this in strong winds.
    

15. •CAUTION: Only kitesurfers with advanced skills should attempt to rescue others. If a less experienced kitesurfer attempts a rescue and gets their own kite lines tangled, then two people require rescuing.
    

16. •CAUTION: Retrieving a kite is more difficult and dangerous than retrieving a board. Be careful to avoid getting tangled in the kite lines.
    

17. •If you lose your board after a stack and are having trouble finding it, pull on some power to get lifted out of the water then have a look around for it. If you are looking for a buddy's lost board, do a jump to have a look around from above. Its much easier to spot a board with a bit of height.
    

1. •SKILLS AND TECHNIQUES - JUMPING
   

2. •WARNING: Jumping can be dangerous.  Only jump when you have a clear safety zone 50m downwind and 30m upwind.  Never jump in shallow water.
   

3. •To jump you may have to focus on “unlearning” the reflex you have developed to de-power the kite when cresting swells.
   

4. •After some "hang time" keep the kite turning in your direction of travel otherwise you will swing right under it and it will stall and lose power, and may crash.
   

5. •Start will smaller jumps and build up to bigger ones.
   

6. •Once you have mastered jumping, you can combine a jump with a transition to an opposite tack. 
   

7. •When going out through surf, keep kite low down over the waves.  It will tend to pull you out and through them if you get caught in white water.
   

8. •If in doubt, fly the kite out (over the waves).
   

9. •Pop your knees up to the height of the white water you are about to cross.
   

10. •If a big crest is coming, turn away to reduce impact, then turn back out after it has broken.
    

11. •If big broken water coming - jump of the board completely and do a "bomb shape" to reduce flailing.
    

12. •Slow down for broken waves - if you hit them too fast you can launch - if you have no straps you will come are off the board.
    

13. •When going out and a good wave presents, you can turn the kite then turn board to get on wave.
    

14. •If in big surf off the board, duck dive under the wave, dip the kite down (kite out behind the wave).  While under, pull on bar to bring the kite back up.
    

15. •When riding toeside, take the rear foot out and bring it behind the front foot to go upwind better.
    

16. •Turn the kite, turn the board.
    

17. •Don't try and catch waves that break a long way out with no wall.
    

18. •Select waves a long way out and ride them all the way in.
    

19. •Use a low kite position to avoid getting lifted off your board.
    

20. •Keep your kite below 45 degrees to avoid getting lifted off your board.
    

21. •If you crash your kite in surf, re-launch your kite immediately or release it completely. If in doubt, lose the kite.  If your kite is caught by waves and you are attached to the bar, the tension in the lines can easily rip it.
    

ETIQUETTE

1. •Keep your kite well clear of others.  Kites are big and intimidating to many other beach users.  Do not fly your kite low over other people on the beach or in the water.    Overflying pedestrians, roads and other people's property is one the biggest causes of complaints against kitesurfers.
   

2. •Use designated areas for rigging and landing kites.  
   

3. •Use designated access lanes only for leaving and returning to the shore.
   

4. •As a general rule kiters are expected to remain 50 meters from a beach.
   

5. •Don't drop in on (or snake) other kiters waves.  
   

6. •Keep well clear of any surfers or windsurfers.  
   

7. •Watch out for any swimmers offshore - they can be very hard to see in a swell or chop.
   

8. •Help other kiters launch and land their kites, or if they end up in danger or distress.  
   

General

1. •Use a combination key safe that locks onto the outside of your car (e.g. towing ring or towbar) to store your car key while out on the water.  Cars are broken into when left, particularly if you stash a key somewhere insecure, or leave a key in your kitebag on the beach.  There is also a "Hitchsafe" model that fits inside a standard towbar fitting.
   

2. •When travelling, make sure you pack screwdrivers and allen keys in your hold luggage - they are likely to be confiscated if you attempt to carry them onto the plane.